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Old 07-08-2010, 01:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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or just cut the mechanical connection, though it would be nice if I could put things back to stock with ease.
I'll mess with that after coffee.

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Old 07-08-2010, 01:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You can always choke the valve by placing a gasket with a smaller hole between the IACV and manifold. That will tame things down.
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Old 07-08-2010, 01:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tasdrouille View Post
You can always choke the valve by placing a gasket with a smaller hole between the IACV and manifold. That will tame things down.
That probably is the best solution, since the IACV will still work, just with less intensity.
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Old 07-08-2010, 01:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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No CEL in the truck. I still need to try driving the car with it unplugged. I unplugged it and then started it up and it slowly built revs until I shut it down. Not sure why. I will try it again and drive it.

The truck works great! It almost dies on cold start but a tap of gas will cure that. Not much power on cold cylinders. I REALLY don't like those 2000 rpm on COLD winter starts. It will be getting a switch/rheostat this fall.

The car revs to 3500 rpm to warm up when it is -30 or colder!!!!! NOT GOOD!!!! I don't like to see those kinds of rpm on a cold engine with no oil flow.
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Old 07-08-2010, 01:48 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Okay, so with a little googling I've found that my car has a CEL code for the IAB, but the IAB has some manual adjustments... I've got some playing to do, I just wish it wasn't so darn hot and sticky out today...
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Old 07-08-2010, 02:07 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I was looking at my throttle body and I have an adjusting screw for the closed-throttle position. Maybe give it a hair turn?
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Old 07-08-2010, 02:33 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Turning it up a hair won't hurt. As long as it idles no higher than 850 or so in neutral when fully warm, you're fine.
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Old 07-08-2010, 03:17 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I will probably turn it up a hair then.

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