I unplugged the idle air bypass

[IsaacCarlson]

The truck has been wanting to rev a little high between gears and idles high at stop signs every once in a while. I pulled the wire about 5 minutes ago and it idled nice and low the way I like it. Now to test it out.....HMMMM I have a friend that needs brakes done....maybe I will take the truck.

[IsaacCarlson]

......AND GOT 32MPG!!!! I drove from Colfax to Eau Claire and back for a total of 55.xx miles and used approximately 1.7 gallons of gas. I even made an extra stop to help someone who hit a deer(the deer was a complete loss) and had to take off up hill. I have to go back tomorrow so I will see if it comes out the same again. The rpm drops right down to idle between shifts so it enters the next gear perfectly. It idles like silk.
I also plugged the EGR back in....not sure if it works or not but it is plugged in.

[RobertSmalls]

IACV's are annoying, and they're not needed for a smooth idle above a certain engine temperature. In my case, it's around 100°F. You'll probably want to leave yours unplugged until autumn rolls around. I've thought about an IACV toggle switch, but the engine kill switch sort of makes that redundant. 0RPM > 1000RPM.

[tasdrouille]

I need to do that to the Elantra. Oh, how I like seeing it rev to 2k rpm as I turn the key on a chilly winter morning!

[320touring]

Originally Posted by tasdrouille

I need to do that to the Elantra. Oh, how I like seeing it rev to 2k rpm as I turn the key on a chilly winter morning!

My Parents Toyota Avensis (97 year model) does this- it holds 1500 for about 30 secs after start up- seems to be an inbuilt way of getting the engine toe temperature quicker..

has anyone compared the time and fuel required vs not having it?

[comptiger5000]

My Jeep isn't too bad with the IAC. It revs to 1500 and settles right back down on startup (when cold, about 1200 when warm). I think my coolant temp sensor is reading too warm though, as it doesn't do the 900 rpm cold idle that it's supposed to unless it's below 30* when I start it. If I fire it up on a 60* morning, it drops right to normal curb idle (and yes, the IAC works).

[dcb]

The saturn was annoying on restart, like it would jump to 1800 rpm for a couple seconds.

I just waited till it was warmed up with some accessories on and idling nicely, and unplugged it. I don't need the engine to rev up every restart (which is a lot)

[Dr. Jerryrigger]

My Subaru jumps up to 2,200RPM (2,000 before i used synthetic) and takes about 90sec to drop to 1000, and it idles at ~600. I really should do something about that.
My ex has a dodge Dakota with a busted IACV. It had a broken vacuum hose, so I replaced that, but that only helped the vacuum leek. It would stall out now and then if you didn't have a feel for when it needed a little air. Once it stalled in the middle of a bad intersection, but I kept it rolling as I popped into N and cranked it. I can see why cars have them, but I don't want mine to
Any CEL reaction to the unplug-it approach? It seems like such a simple thing that it wouldn't.... well maybe on a 09 or 10 (but I will not be driving one of those for a least ten year)

[comptiger5000]

In my Jeep, unplugging the IAC is an instant CEL. When you plug it back in, the light clears after 2 or 3 drive cycles.

[RobertSmalls]

Dr. J: Let us know if the Subaru throws a CEL.

You should be able to create a fake IACV for the computer to look at. If you don't want to spend a bunch of time at RadioShack, then you could just zip-tie a junkyard IACV next to your throttle body and plug in to that for the summer.

Or perhaps you could create a restriction in the IACV air passage. Be careful that your restriction doesn't get sucked into the engine; the pressure across a throttle plate is enormous.