improving a softtop convertible

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by aerohead

Thinking out loud,if the mods were rear-hinged and forward-latched,could you swing the new construction away to the rear,exposing the engine cover for access?

Okay after thinking about this some more, I think this is the only viable way to do it. If the freaking engine cover opened the other way like a Koenigsegg...haha not gonna happen.

I'm not sure my fabrication skills are good enough for this, but I guess it's worth a shot? I'd like to do "flying buttress" pillars with "roof spoiler", hinged at the end of the trunk. Sorta a "fastback" top that goes over the back of the original.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

Okay after thinking about this some more, I think this is the only viable way to do it. If the freaking engine cover opened the other way like a Koenigsegg...haha not gonna happen.

I'm not sure my fabrication skills are good enough for this, but I guess it's worth a shot? I'd like to do "flying buttress" pillars with "roof spoiler", hinged at the end of the trunk. Sorta a "fastback" top that goes over the back of the original.

There's no better way to learn than just jump in and begin.Cardboard and masking tape can render full-scale mockups pretty quick, to allow you to 'visit' with your creation.Your sub-conscious mind will grind away as you sleep,working to solve issues.Don't be surprised if you wake up out of a dead sleep at weird hours with 'solutions.' It's a hoot!

[metromizer]

Aside from my 3/5 Metro, I also own a 2000 MR2 Spyder.

When the transaxle pinion bearing noise got real bad (common problem with them), I swapped out my old 5th gear for a new taller one out of a Corrolla (I have the part numbers around here somewhere). I haven't done it, but it looks like you could do the gear swap with the trans still in the car. Otherwise, it's a 10hr job for a non-pro like myself, floor jack and stands, to R&R the trans. Removing the front cover and the gear swap itself is straight forward. RPM's in 5th dropped by about 500rpm, perfect for freeway cruising. My fuel economy improved by about 4 mpg on long Interstate trips as a result.

Unfortunately, those early 3rd generation Spyders are notorious for their rings wearing out prematurely, and burning oil. (Check Spyderchat.com if you haven't found it already).

Far outweighing aero improvements, this will be your biggest challenge toward FE improvements, as burning oil causes engine knock, which sends the ECU into ignition timing retard mode, lowering both power and FE. A bandaid for this, is to use Premium fuel.... ask me how I know I now have an oil separator in line with an aftermarket, CARB approved, high-flow PCV valve that works to combat this issue. After a couple of close calls with low oil level, I installed a Moroso extra capacity oil pan, reducing my chances of accidentally running it out of oil (I drive 700/week). I'm back to burning regular 87 octane fuel since adding the separator. It's been a good strategy so far, I now have 200k mile on the odometer.

Anyhow, the 'behind the seat' factory flip-up wind deflector does work, I have seen people replace the factory plasic with a taller one, that reportedly reduce wind noise (my gal doesn't like her hair wind blown, so I'm considering this option as well)

As you probably already know, factory hard tops were available in Europe for these cars. There is a guy that imports used ones to the states for about $2600 incl/freight. That would be a great foundation from which to start modding the 'greenhouse'.

If you are really serious about FE, I'd reduce rolling resistance. Consider dumping the wide performance tires, opting for a different rim, narrower, with LRR tires, and reduce the rear positive camber. You can disconnect the electric power steering easily enough. Unless you are a girl, manual steering effort is not bad at all, even at low parking lot speeds.

[serialk11r]

metromizer, thanks for the advice.
I did register at spyderchat.com and make a post

They all tell me to gut the precats, because they're notorious for blowing, and then sending ceramic dust into the engine which destroys the cylinder bore.

I expect to be putting at most 1500 miles a year on the car, at least for now, so the gear swap isn't so economically sound. What's that, 45 gallons of gas vs. 40 with the swap? I know I could go to a junkyard and find a M/T Corolla, but I think pulling the transmission would be a nontrivial task...it's just more time than it's worth.
LittleRocket wrote that you can undo 3 of the bolts so that the transmission drops down and hangs by the last one or something, and gives you access to the cover, but that doesn't solve the issue of needing a custom modified gear puller, and the fact that I have never worked with this stuff before. I don't have much time anyways, busy with school :/

Don't get me wrong, the 5th gear certainly bothers the hell out of me! When I drove it home the first time, I never went over 70mph and generally stayed at about 60mph because the engine was making such a racket spinning 3500rpm.

What I really want is a 6 speed, but those are quite expensive. 5th gear is perfect for 25-35mph streets where you can barely avoid bogging the engine. Anything higher a 6th gear would be really nice.

My "master plan" is to give this thing a built high rev Miller cycle 1NZ with an Eaton TVS charger. It would be a f***ton of work and not be any faster than a 2ZZ but it would make the nerd in my extremely happy. The day that happens I'll bring a 6 speed gearbox over. Or maybe Toyota can stop being cheap and bring a newer engine with 6 speed gearbox over to the US.

Oh and of course, I'm going to buy an OBDII scanner sometime so I can monitor fuel economy with my phone

And regarding the steering, yes I am aware that it's not hard to steer. I moved the car around on a slanted driveway without turning the ignition on, and it was not difficult at all, even when the car was not moving at all. When the ignition is on, the steering effort reduces but there wasn't much effort needed in the first place, so I'm not that concerned about the steering pump power consumption. The steering feels rubbery when the assist is fully off, which I don't like...I may try giving the motor some PWM regulation to give the steering a stiffer feel.

[metromizer]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

metromizer, thanks for the advice.
I did register at spyderchat.com and make a post

if you do, be sure to have your Big-Boy Pants on... that place can get a little rough... particularly if you think even slightly outside the box, are new, and young.

Originally Posted by serialk11r

They all tell me to gut the precats, because they're notorious for blowing, and then sending ceramic dust into the engine which destroys the cylinder bore.

I read that as well. I pulled my exhaust manifold off 6 months after getting my Spyder, at 130kmiles. Surprisingly the honeycomb was 100% perfect and in tact, but I chipped it out per the advice. It was burning some oil at the time, and has only gotten worse with wear. In my case, the pre-cats had no effect on my engine wear. But even with that, it still passes a SF Bay Area rolling dyno emissions test. For now at least.

Originally Posted by serialk11r

I expect to be putting at most 1500 miles a year on the car, at least for now, so the gear swap isn't so economically sound.

I agree. Good luck!

[botsapper]

Researched an aero-cleaner, quieter & improved music listening ~ hardtop route? http://www.spydermagazine.com/2001/F..._Hardtop_4.JPG

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by botsapper

Researched an aero-cleaner, quieter & improved music listening ~ hardtop route? http://www.spydermagazine.com/2001/F..._Hardtop_4.JPG

Try 2500-3000 dollars. I'd like to save that for a new engine or something :P
To be honest, it's not actually that noisy, just an annoying whistling sound above 50mph, and it's not any worse than the A pillar whistling some fixed roof cars have. I don't listen to music :P

The aero also isn't improved much, the only improvements are the very slightly bigger radius on the curve of the rear in some portions, and the smoother top (no metal hoop profile poking out). The dimensions and shape are nearly identical.

[kach22i]

You have a nice car serial, and for the miles you plan to put on it, will be difficult to recoup any eco/aero improvement costs.

I'd simply install a chin spoiler perhaps made of conveyor belt material and be done with it.

Driving with the top down is one of the best things about these cars, enjoy it "as is".

[botsapper]

[QUOTE=serialk11r;324726]Try 2500-3000 dollars. I'd like to save that for a new engine or something :P

@ least they halved the price.
2005 2004 2003 2002 2001 2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder ViS Racing Hardtop

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by kach22i

You have a nice car serial, and for the miles you plan to put on it, will be difficult to recoup any eco/aero improvement costs.

I'd simply install a chin spoiler perhaps made of conveyor belt material and be done with it.

Driving with the top down is one of the best things about these cars, enjoy it "as is".

Nah the point of aeromods is to slightly cut down on the wind noise and to satisfy the wannabe engineer in me. Aeromods are cheap and fun, engine mods are expensive and fun. Without a taller cruising gear I wouldn't drive too fast anyways, the engine gets really loud.

Originally Posted by botsapper

@ least they halved the price.
2005 2004 2003 2002 2001 2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder ViS Racing Hardtop

"No hardware" sounds sorta bad when you look at the next option, and it explicitly says "with lexan rear window and seals"...I think seals are pretty important.

Oh yea by the way, I've already done an "aeromod"; Since the previous owner didn't have a front license plate bracket (said he has been driving 32 years without front plates, never ticketed...), I taped the license plate to the black plastic surrounding the front grille. Partial grille block! Covers about 1/3 of the area, ideally should have fairings but oh well.