Jeep Aero mods testing - with results

[Taylor95]

Wouldn't leaving the middle two open provide more of a cooling benefit? Or is the point to leave those covered?

[AdrianD]

I don't know, the only discussion I've found about what openings to leave open is for an XJ which has the viscous fan and the owner openings in front of the viscous fan open for correct viscous fan operation.
My Jeep has a hydraulically operated fan, so no need for that.

[AdrianD]

Trip done, now for some numbers:
First tank, over 393 miles of highway (reference section) - 31.65 calculated MPG, 35.1 indicated MPG
Second tank, over 425 miles of highway and 120 miles of mountain roads (commute to the ski slope) - 28.2 calculated MPG
Third tank, over 457 miles of highway - 29.66 calculated MPG - strong side winds

Average MPG over 1396 miles - 29.586, indicated MPG: 33.128.

In L/100km, the difference between indicated to calculated consumption was 0.7L/100km for the first tank and 0.8L/100km for the trip total.

The trip from 2016 had an average MPG of 29.549. For that trip I had a stronger chin spoiler and the lower grille block.


You can see here that the chin spoiler bent back. I will modify the mounts to make it stronger and easier to install/uninstall:


Here it's obvious that there is a lot of road spray on the chin spoiler and almost nothing on the tire deflector past the bend. Should there be spray there to show attached air flow? Corner wear from tire contact is also visible:


This is how far back the deflector is pushed when going up to 85 mph, the highway was very busy and sometimes passing trucks required going that fast.


Back to the drawing board for the deflectors. I'm open to suggestions

[AdrianD]

Also, I'm an idiot with the grille block, I should've read this first:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...ary-13768.html

[freebeard]

Turnbuckles.

[AdrianD]

That thing looks bad-ass

[freebeard]

It's easier when you start with a Beetle.

It's not streetable, in fact they had to remove the splitter to get it on and off their trailer.

[AdrianD]

Originally Posted by freebeard

It's easier when you start with a Beetle.

It's not streetable, in fact they had to remove the splitter to get it on and off their trailer.

I remember reading the topic with that.

Honestly, I don't know if the car felt more stable at highway speeds because of the deflectors or because I replaced some worn control arm bushings

[gumby79]

Drive win it is snowing. The snow packs into stagnation points. Modifying the shape until a laminar layer develops guiding the fresh sticky snowflakes around the stagnation/impact point.
I think you will find that the snow will pack in were the road grim is . If the radius was too tight I would have expected to see recirculation / patterns like i see in the upper section


Unless you have an affinity for symmetry I would try moving both openings in the grill block to the inlet side of the radiator for better Delta T when cooling, this might also help with warmup times. You have the equipment to test. Use the scan tool and pin a land mark to the point it hits 90% thermostat open temp and first close with various startup temps. If your log will give you mi/time stamps that makes it easier.

I think your test is good enouph for a dose it work, but as stated multiple runs (3-5) avg would give a more accurate how much. Also how many mi run before testing? Cold diff oil ect. can have a large impact on results

Dream Big Chisel Down To Reality

[kach22i]

Originally Posted by AdrianD

Also, I'm an idiot with the grille block, I should've read this first:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...ary-13768.html

Don't kick yourself too hard, anyone that's done the block before could have spoken up earlier on.

As for myself, I do not like grille blocks as I had an overheating issue back in 1983 when I tried my first one. There were no rules or guidelines back then, and no Internet.

Funny that #1 and #2 rules would have changed things had they been followed.