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Old 02-01-2012, 07:24 PM   #21 (permalink)
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This has me debating a couple options for my 2006 Corolla... I HATE freezing my ass off in my car in the morning, but fortunately an out of control internal thermostat makes it better for me than some others. The cold stick and steering wheel are the worst things to my mind...

I'm thinking a 12v Deep Cycle battery set up like the sound kiddies do so they don't drain their starter batts while pumping the beats, so it also gets recharged during normal running, which could power a 12v inline coolant heater/pump. Wire it up with a remote control with feedback and a couple hundred feet of operation, and I'm ace, yes?

Then the question is, how long would this thing need to run to warm the ICE to a decent starting temp, like, say, minimum of 75 degrees, and will something like a Yellow Top work for this? Should I just build/buy a prebuilt batt pack for the job, and if so, what type?

Thoughts anyone?

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Old 02-02-2012, 12:29 AM   #22 (permalink)
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A deep cycle battery would work. But your vehicle would have to run for an extended time just to recover a charge. Example. 800 amp deep cycle at half capacity plus the load from accessories and not to forget the cars primary battery. Common alt. 70 - 90 amps. At roughly 1200 to 2200 rpm's.
I know there is a calucation to do this.
If u independently kept the deep cycle on a 5-10 amp charger at night. I could see this working.
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Old 02-02-2012, 09:10 AM   #23 (permalink)
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You'd need a huge deep cycle to dump the kind of power you'd want into the engine and cabin. Unfortunately its just not practical. The penalty you'd pay in gas for having your alternator recharge the batteries would be pretty substancial too. Wall AC power is a much better (cheaper, easier, environmentally) way to go.
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:22 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
Problems with this remote setup.

Either someone else's remote (car security/garage opener?) is triggering it, or it's defective. Investigating...
Solved the mystery! My coolant+cabin heater remote was sometimes (only sometimes, maybe 1 in 4) being triggered by the remote door un/locking fob for a neighbour's car!

Still haven't messed with the dip switches, but at least I know how to test them when I do.
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Old 02-02-2012, 11:09 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Solved the mystery! My coolant+cabin heater remote was sometimes (only sometimes, maybe 1 in 4) being triggered by the remote door un/locking fob for a neighbour's car!

Still haven't messed with the dip switches, but at least I know how to test them when I do.
How did you find that out?
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Old 02-02-2012, 11:34 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I plugged a light bulb in the circuit and asked people to keep an eye out for when it was on (by saying, basically, they shouldn't see it on at all - since I use the car so little).

She actually saw the light go on when she remotely unlocked her car. (Both cars parked outside, about 30 feet apart)
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:32 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
You'd need a huge deep cycle to dump the kind of power you'd want into the engine and cabin. Unfortunately its just not practical. The penalty you'd pay in gas for having your alternator recharge the batteries would be pretty substancial too. Wall AC power is a much better (cheaper, easier, environmentally) way to go.
This is, unfortunately, not possible for me. I just moved into NYC, which is why I am wondering what my options are as far as battery operation goes.
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:33 PM   #28 (permalink)
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So... can you also unlock her car doors with your remote?
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Old 02-02-2012, 01:10 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I was thinking you were doing something like this:
remote block heater pump - Insight Central: Honda Insight Forum

With a beefy enough block heater and a shunt to power the cabin fan, that would be a pretty elegant solution.

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