Learning to drive manual

[user removed]

Originally Posted by sheepdog 44

I need some advice. I can't get the 4 12mm bolts holding in the steering rack out. Same for the seat bolts. Those suckers are torqued on so tight they might as well be welded on. My other car, they come off no problem. My electric drill is no match. What can i do?

It'll be a week till i can take it to a shop. I really want to remove my dashboard console.

On frozen bolts, take a piece of flat bar put it against one of the 6 hex sides of the bolt head and give it a good rap with a hammer like a small (2lb) sledge. Not a killer blow that knocks the head off the bolt, but fairly stout so you actually move the head enough to break the corrosion bond.

Then a power handle and six point perfect fit socket, preferably a hardened 1/2 inch drive impact socket.

smaller bolts smaller tech, same principle.

regards
mech

[jamesqf]

Originally Posted by sheepdog 44

My current insurance wants half what i payed for it a year just for collision. I need to look elsewhere. Talk about trying to have a cheap car!

No point in having collision insurance on a cheap car. Liability only.

[user removed]

I like comprehensive for hail storms, falling trees, floods, wind damage, etc. No collision on my 2015.

regards
mech

[user removed]

The Sentra was $241 a year with comp and towing. Towing like $4 a year.

[darcane]

Originally Posted by sheepdog 44

Thanks to Ma laws i'm paying 12% sales tax cause nada value is higher for private sales (dealer would be 6.25%). My current insurance wants half what i payed for it a year just for collision. I need to look elsewhere. Talk about trying to have a cheap car! Everyone wants part of the pie, gas is by far the least of it.

Paying sales tax on a used car is ridiculous, it was already paid when the car was new. The dealers get a break on it, so buyers have more incentive to buy a car from them rather than private party. I have to deal with that BS too, here in Washington State.

When I'm buying a car that is significantly below blue book prices, I'll print out a Declaration of Value form from the D.O.L. (Link for WA state form: http://dor.wa.gov/Docs/Forms/Misc/De...dVehSold_E.pdf). They will base the tax off the agreed value instead of blue book prices. MA should have something similar, but it may be too late since you need signatures from both buyer and seller.

[sheepdog 44]

The new addition to the family. This will ensure i have a vehicle to make mods in the garage that can be swapped to either car.



This shows the progress in stripping the car of excess weight. Note the interior was/is unsanitary due to mice infestation. This suits my purposes. Ima batt will be removed with good weather and a bypass junction cable made. Considering Lithium grid charged 12 volt or eventual alternator as future projects. Stalled on dashboard removal due to bolts. First things first, i have to get it ready to pass inspection by either Peters Ecm enabler, or swapping my other working HV battery in. Then learn to drive manual some more for the 100 miles it takes to reset the readiness monitors.


The contents of the removal. Not shown is a large plastic bag full of carpet. Weight reduction is getting hard to figure. I'm at a loss for major components to take out. I've been eyeing the blower motor,AC,Heater unit. They take up most of the space under the dashboard.

[sheepdog 44]

IMA battery removed. After all the little bits i've taken out, this left me with a feeling of satisfaction. I lifted it out myself even though it weighed half as much as myself. Took a 3 foot piece of 2x4, and wrapped kayak straps around it and the metal pieces on top of the battery. Good enough for a pack lifter.

If successful, the Ecm enabler would delete both BCM and MCM computers, and IMA battery. My one worry for the time being, is if the 12volt battery will charge properly. From my understanding the MCM is integral to running the MDM which feeds power into the DC-DC which charges the 12volt. All current IMA bypasses have so far left the MCM connected.

[sheepdog 44]

(In response to someone on a different forum)

I want to leave it as a gas engine car for a demonstration proof of concept. I always tell people it's the 1 liter engine and good aero that gets it good mpg. But they only hear "hybrid" and somehow i feel they're left with a profound lack of understanding. I want to show people that lightweight, aero, small engine and tall gearing can get you 50+mpg today. That it can be done cheaply without premium technology. Maybe someone will get it and influence future cars. I think those points are key even to make a mainstream 200+ mile EV.

Gasoline is also the standard by which MPG-E (equivalent) is measured. Remember anything i do to the car is not permanent. I can just as easily re-hybridize it in a day.

The next step will be aerodynamic mods. Boat-tail, belly pan, aero front with grill blocks, wheel skirts and strakes. That is the hard part that requires time and some artisanry. But i firmly believe the only reason there isn't a super aerodynamic sub 0.16cd car is because no one has tried to make it. "It always seems impossible until its done." - Nelson Mandela

The ecm fooler has other implications for people to pass inspection with failing batteries. Further life support till an eventual after market IMA battery purchase. Test #1 is if i can get all the readiness codes to reset. Test #2 is if it'll pass emissions inspection. If not, the Ima battery from the other car will be temporarily swapped in. All i'm waiting for now is to be emailed the programming code.

[sheepdog 44]

The Eagle has landed!!! Ecm enabler is up and running, no IMA or CEL codes on the dash. Ima battery, mcm, bcm have successfully been deleted. This is now a 100% internal combustion engine Honda Insight, "batteries-not-included."

There are 3 giveaways that the Ecm Enabler is present. 1, CEL turns off after 1 second when dash is lit to secondary key position. It should stay lit for about 15 seconds and turn off to show emmissions system is ready, or if the 12 volt was just disconnected it should blink a couple times to indicate it is not ready. 2, When you short the obdII with a paper clip to read blink codes, the CEL stays lit, but does not blink to indicate any codes. 3, Battery gauge is empty, will not assist or regen.

This is a momentous occasion! I haven't driven it yet, tomorrow i'll register her and see if she passes Inspection! Would anybody like to temporarily loan me an OBDIIC&C Gauge to test for leanburn among other things and document how the Ecm Enabler affects the car? I live in Pittsfield MA, USA. I'd be willing to put down a refundable deposit for it's return.

Notes: Peter sent me two versions of the code, the correct version appears to be "ECMFooler12F1822_080215.HEX" at 2.26kb vs "100215" at 2.44kb. Version "100215" turned off the IMA light but gave me CEL 69 and 36; basically saying MCM could not be communicated with (unplugged).

[sheepdog 44]

Okay, so i bring the 2000 Insight into a hyundai dealership (cause only right turns and side roads) for inspection. This is in the state of Massachusetts. I have a CEL lit with p0420, and i pass??? Emissions result: N/A???

How is that possible? I was expecting to fail for the 60 day extension. I have never heard of anyone passing with a CEL on. Did the 2000 fall under a new law, was i being gifted a sticker? Maybe i should have tipped $100? Why have i been going to the dedicated inspection stations all my life?