1994 Ford F150

[Execut1ve]

Hello all,

I'm not new to the site but I thought I'd submit my 1994 F150 to the group for evaluation. The specs: (for those too lazy to read them on my profile )

1994 Ford F150
reg cab, long bed w/ cap
5.0L V8 OHV FI engine
auto trans (4R70W)
4wd
3.55 gears
stock size tires
~155k mi

I got this truck from my father in law, who did not maintain it well at all. It was leaking oil and coolant and they assumed it was a lost cause. I've put a lot of work into whipping it into shape, with good results so far Things I've replaced/fixed include: ball joints, front axle u-joints, wheel bearing, oil pan, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, valve cover gaskets, brake caliper, radiator, radiator hoses, and thermostat. Next repair is not decided yet but it could be changing differential fluids or adjusting valve clearances.

Back in the winter the best I could do with it was 12 or 13 mpg, which I blame on cold temps and winter gas. Now that it's warmed up I've pushed up to around 15 mpg. Currently it is my daily driver, mainly used to go to work and back which is about 5 mi (top speed 45 mph, slightly uphill) one way. I haven't done much in the way of modding for fuel econ on the truck simply because my time has been taken up with repairs. I did electrically disconnect the AC compressor (trial basis to see if I can tolerate no AC through the summer), remove the air intake duct that runs under the mouth of the hood, creating a sort of quasi-warm air intake, and install a slightly cooler than stock thermostat (180 vs 195) in preparation for a timing bump.

I have a new engine (4.9L I6) waiting ready to go in as soon as I scratch up the funds to buy it. I'd also like to swap to a manual tranny but I have yet to source that. Other mods I've considered include e-fans and e-pump (probably with alternator upgrade), camshaft swap and valvetrain upgrade, timing bump to 16 deg BTDC in conjunction with ignition system upgrade and stretching spark plug gap, AC delete, regearing (to what?) and power to manual steering conversion.

I would love any suggestions or discussion on what order I should do those mods or any other suggestions that would be helpful. I am also interested in aero mods such as an air dam or underbelly pan - I will tolerate looking silly to a point in the name of fuel econ I have plenty of pics of the truck in various stages of disassembly if anyone's interested as well

[War_Wagon]

I wouldn't mess with too much on the 5.0L, it is already a decent set up. The rockers are non-adjustable, and it has factory roller lifters, so the only thing you can really change is the actual camshaft, everything else can just stay the way it is in the valvetrain department. A cooler thermostat will increase performance, but decrease your MPGs. It makes more power because the computer always thinks the engine is a bit cold and tries to help it reach operating temperature by running it rich. I'd just advance the timing as much as you can given your driving conditions, fuel quality etc.

Electric fan is a good idea, the in-tank electric fuel pump is not something you have to change/upgrade until it gives you problems, don't worry about the stock alternator feeding the electric fan etc, they can handle it. An MSD system is always a good idea, these engines respond really well to them.

I think you will gain more from aero changes and driving changes than drivetrain changes for now. Some alloy wheels off an XLT model will save you some weight, consider trying a grill block, and if it wasn't a 4x4 I'd say drop it til the muffler scrapes, but a lowered 4x4 kind of defeats the purpose. Good luck.

[Frank Lee]

Drive the Civic. Or even bicycle.

There must be something wrong with it. Look at my fe.

[Execut1ve]

the wife is driving the civic for now, and I sweat too much to bike to work in the summer

I'm under the impression that the cooler thermostat helps get the engine out of open loop faster, thus decreasing the amount of time the computer forces the engine to run rich in order to get to operating temp. I had also been told that the cooler thermostat works well in conjunction with the timing bump, though I don't know the science behind that statement.

I wasn't clear about the pump, I meant electric water pump, not fuel pump.

It is an XLT, so I suppose I have the alloy wheels already

I don't do any offroading, so extra ground clearance (up to a point) isn't worth anything to me. Currently I have the truck leveled (lifted about 1.5" in the front) but I'm learning that this twin i-beam axle in the front is a real pain to get aligned at non-stock heights, so I'm giving real thought to putting the stock height coils back on the front and putting a smaller block in the rear to make it sit level (non-level truck is a pet peeve of mine).

I am interested in the idea of an air dam and/or underbelly pan but I worry a bit because my understanding is these trucks are bottom breathers... with a full or partial grill block and an underbelly pan, will the engine be suffocated?

Frank keep in mind the truck is not at 100% right now... if you look at my fuel econ graph, the upward trend you'll see is due (at least in part, imo) to the ongoing repairs being done on the truck. I think once I replace/upgrade the plugs/wires I'll see another little bump in fuel econ, and replacing the differential fluids with synthetic will help as well.

[Frank Lee]

the wife is driving the civic for now, and I sweat too much to bike to work in the summer

Get another one. This is 2011- the time for solo commuting in pickups should be well behind us now.

I'm under the impression that the cooler thermostat helps get the engine out of open loop faster, thus decreasing the amount of time the computer forces the engine to run rich in order to get to operating temp.

That's bass ackwards.

I wasn't clear about the pump, I meant electric water pump, not fuel pump.

Forget that.

I don't do any offroading, so extra ground clearance (up to a point) isn't worth anything to me. Currently I have the truck leveled (lifted about 1.5" in the front) but I'm learning that this twin i-beam axle in the front is a real pain to get aligned at non-stock heights, so I'm giving real thought to putting the stock height coils back on the front and putting a smaller block in the rear to make it sit level (non-level truck is a pet peeve of mine).

Go stock- a bit nose down is more aero.

I am interested in the idea of an air dam and/or underbelly pan but I worry a bit because my understanding is these trucks are bottom breathers... with a full or partial grill block and an underbelly pan, will the engine be suffocated?

I run a full grille block AND no fan AND engine blanket (but I have to pull the block out in summer when towing). I'm making an air dam too (search for my thread) but don't know the effects of it yet.

Frank keep in mind the truck is not at 100% right now... if you look at my fuel econ graph, the upward trend you'll see is due (at least in part, imo) to the ongoing repairs being done on the truck. I think once I replace/upgrade the plugs/wires I'll see another little bump in fuel econ, and replacing the differential fluids with synthetic will help as well.

Seriously. If you aren't hauling/towing, that thing outta be parked.

P.S. 5 miles trips, 45 mph, cold both directions- that's way more of a problem than aero. Grille block and engine blanket and fan delete- same stuff as mine will get that thing into closed loop much, much faster. Make sure there are no dragging brakes- I've had to free mine up.

[Execut1ve]

If I had the scratch to buy another civic, I would. I got the truck for free; that's why I drive it.

convince me regarding the water pump and thermostat

[Frank Lee]

Convince you what. Go stock on both.

Anyone out there with a 5.0 F150 that's beating my fe, I want to know what non-stock things you've done!

[Execut1ve]

convince me that stock is better for fe for those 2 components, or rather, tell me why

[cleanspeed1]

I would do a couple of things, the first being a mass air conversion for the efi. That will take you from the batch fire / speed density to a sequential system. Ford Motorsport used to offer the system and no doubt can be found from one of the late model Mustang vendors. That one change will pick up the mileage quite a bit. Then I would call dpTuner up and see about a custom tune. Jody knows what he is doing.

The exhaust system from the motor to the tailpipe needs to be dealt with, and I would get a set of Doug's tri-y long tube headers, 2.25-2.5" piping for the rest of the exhaust
, high flow catalytic convertor, muffler and full length tailpipe.

As far as the other changes are concerned, if you get the tune right and drop the gearing down to 3.08 or 2.73, you will not have to give up the A/C and the power steering for a mileage gain. Couple that with the aero mods and you should be good to go.

If you want to do a maximum effort, full size Ford, it'll be better to start with a 2wd, 6 cylinder, stick, base model truck with fuel injection and then mod it from there. Unless you really want to do an engine swap on the existing truck, it'll be a lot less work going with a truck that's already set up that way and a lot cheaper.

[Frank Lee]

He says he has no money. I think the gas station is getting too much of it!