lower viscosity oil

[SentraSE-R]

I'll throw out a caution for people with older engines. In 2006, Toyota put out TSB EG018-06, which changed the recommended oil for certain 2006 engines to 5W-20W, and for other 2006 and 2007 engines to 0W-20W. Owners of older Toyota engines should continue to use the engine oil recommended in their owner manuals (typically 5W-30W for 2004-2005 models). Apparently, the older engines don't have adequate bearing smoothness/clearance to use the thinner viscosity oil.

[F8L]

A very appropriate warning.

[euromodder]

You'll see most benefits from going to a lighter oil during winter.
It'll lube better and faster during cold starts, and won't provide as much friction as the regular thicker oil.

Changing the gearbox and transmission oils to lighter oils, would decrease your mechanical drag.

[MPGranger]

Originally Posted by LeanBurn

So how many tanks did you show this increase on?

Still on the same tank that I switched over on. Plus, my wife occasionally uses my truck and revs McGee doesn't like to hypermile, at all!

[BHarvey]

10w30's are usually middle of the road in the 30 grade, 5w30's are on the lighter end, for the most part. Most 'dino' 5w30's that start on the light side of 30 will shear to the 20 grade in less than 2k miles on 'severe service' oil change intervals.

Most 20's start on the high end of the grade and I've never seen one shear out of grade.
Have seen some that ended up being very low on the 20 grade, but was still a 20.

[rmay635703]

Originally Posted by BHarvey

10w30's are usually middle of the road in the 30 grade, 5w30's are on the lighter end, for the most part. Most 'dino' 5w30's that start on the light side of 30 will shear to the 20 grade in less than 2k miles on 'severe service' oil change intervals.

Since you bring this up have you ever tested 0w30 synthetic?

My Cobalt calls for 5w30 but also can accept 10w30, 10w30 definately reduces winter FE. I have considered the 0w30 weight but worry about it not being enough.

Any ideas?

[BHarvey]

0w30 M1 is a pretty stout 30. It has shown to hold up very well as it starts on the high end of the grade. Don't worry about the 0 number, it's only the cold rating and ALL oils are WAY too heavy on start up compared to there hot viscosity.

Hot viscosity (212f) is at 10.9 cst and the cold (32f) is 524 cst, or 48X thicker!

0w oils usually use a superior base oil so the natural viscosity index is higher and less viscosity index improvers (polymers) are need to make the grade. Therefore they usually hold up better, but (disclaimer) there are exceptions.

[serialk11r]

Er, I thought 0W-30 should be as good as 5W or 10W-30 when warmed up...the 0W is always a good thing, because you want your oil to flow well when cold to reduce wear on startup. That's what I read at least. The 30 is the viscosity when up to temperature.

[3n3rgystar]

Originally Posted by euromodder

You'll see most benefits from going to a lighter oil during winter.
It'll lube better and faster during cold starts, and won't provide as much friction as the regular thicker oil.

Changing the gearbox and transmission oils to lighter oils, would decrease your mechanical drag.

Any recommendations on how low can I go with these oils? Have a 1996 Suzuki X-90 5-speed manual and rear wheel drive rear axle.

[SentraSE-R]

Message 11 in this thread. Use the recommended oil in your owners manual.