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Old 02-26-2013, 10:27 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
Obviously they changed their approach.
Well, once again, I need to actually verify this by hooking up some way of monitoring their function. The only "clue" I have so far is that I haven't seen them open since the fall in warmer temps.

In hot weather they are open at rest and I have to "assume" they are closing at speed, and in cold weather they are closed at rest and I have to "assume" they stay that way unless required to open for cooling... ??? I will definitely look into this further and post any findings.

One thing is for sure; if OEMs are integrating this system into cars it's pretty much guaranteed to be a VERY effective step in reducing drag.

That foam is starting to look pretty good. Finger clearance holes? That sounds like lost efficiency to me... can't you integrate some sort of shaved-door-handle solenoid or something overly elaborate to keep us lurkers entertained?

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Old 02-26-2013, 10:34 PM   #22 (permalink)
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If you're driving an Insight, the temp gauge isn't even a glorified idiot light. Mine jumps to 5 bars at ~145F, and stays there even at 230F (per Scangauge).
The 2011 Cruze had an actual engine temperature display accessible on the DIC. They removed this feature for 2012 since too many customers complained that the coolant temperature fluctuated while driving. Most people are better kept oblivious; Information in the wrong hands can be dangerous... :facepalm:

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It's only climbing that apparently produces more heat than the radiator was designed to handle.
Agreed.
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:11 PM   #23 (permalink)
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A minor, non-photographic update:

Today I fiddled, fussed, tweaked and then finally joined the 2 sections using drywall screws to hold things in place. Then I mixed and applied some epoxy to permanently bond them together. Some of the screws will come out once the epoxy cures, while others will be forever entombed inside all the aerodynamic goodness.

EDIT: almost forgot - good news! I won't need to add an actuator OR carve a finger hole to work the hood release lever. The hood lifts just high enough that I can get between it and the top of the grille block to reach the lever. Woo.
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:37 AM   #24 (permalink)
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This is the exact same plan i have for the Swift. Use some sort of foam board (free leftovers from work) to shape and then apply some sort of fiberglass ontop to paint in the cars color. Only issue i have is how to fasten it. But i think i have an idea.

Inspiring work there! Make's it easier for us newbies to see how the pro's go about doing things
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:42 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Pierrel - coming up with a good fastening method can be the tricky part, especially if you want to be able to easily remove the parts (even trickier if you want to be able to remove them without using tools).

Today: progressed to the cosmetic part of the project, at least for the upper section. Maybe some pics tomorrow if I get to the first coat of primer. I hate this part of the job, which is basically the application of expensive chemicals, 90% of which I end up sanding off anyway! I brushed on a "base" coat of epoxy, so up next: sand, putty, sand, paint, sand, putty, sand, paint...

I also made the template for the bottom block as well.

And, I've come up with a plan to make a relatively simple variable shutter for the bottom opening, so I'll have the option of going with a 100% block at times - eg. during warm-up, or very cold temps, long downhill coasts, etc.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:50 AM   #26 (permalink)
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You might try using some flox next time Metro. It is either glass or plastic micro balloons that you mix with the epoxy into a paste with the consistancy about between honey to peanut butter. They make sanding much better and keep your part much lighter.
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:00 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post

EDIT: almost forgot - good news! I won't need to add an actuator OR carve a finger hole to work the hood release lever. The hood lifts just high enough that I can get between it and the top of the grille block to reach the lever. Woo.
This is good to know
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:07 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Pics: upper cosmetic; started on lower



Sand... putty... sand... paint... sand... putty... sand....



Cardboard template for lower block.



Parts cut & kerfed. I'm using 1/2 inch foam board, not 3/4 which I may have wrongly said above.



Backbone epoxied on. I haven't entirely figured out the mounting approach for the lower block, but I have a good idea on a way to do it that will be a no-tools removal/installation.
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:43 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I haven't entirely figured out the mounting approach for the lower block, but I have a good idea on a way to do it that will be a no-tools removal/installation.
Please tell me you're going to use magnets, because then you can claim they improved your MPG and you WON'T end up in the Unicorn Corral.
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:49 PM   #30 (permalink)
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HA!! Now I have to use magnets.

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