Messed up clutch start, possible problem?

[Sulfuric]

Hey all.
So I have been P&Ging the heck out of my current tank, and I think it's really working - I've driven over 70 miles and the needle has barely moved.

BUT

I messed up one of my clutch starts. I was moving too slow for the ambient traffic, I was moving at around 30-35mph, stuck it in 4th gear (probably should've been 5th), and tried to start it.

I don't know what happened. When I tried to restart it with the clutch this happened:
I heard the engine catch, but only halfway, and then the oil light flickered, and then the engine light flickered too, then the engine came back on.

And when I started driving again, after a minute or two, I realized my engine idiot light had illuminated itself for my idiot eyes.

[Christ]

Make sure your key is on before you leave the clutch out to restart the engine, otherwise you'll throw a CEL in some cases, when you finally do turn the key.

If you're stuttering on restarts, then you need to be either a little easier with the clutch pedal, or a whole lot more liberal with it. It's either all at once, or a little at a time - there is no middle ground. I prefer the all at once method most of the time, but I don't mind the clutch shock - I have solid motor mounts.

What's probably happening is referred to as clutch chatter... you're letting it slip too much while applying torque, and it's "jumping" around on the pressure plate/flywheel mating surfaces.

This all assumes that your car used to work normally as well - some vehicles are equipped with security systems that don't allow them to be clutch or torque-started at speeds higher than X MPH.

Try this - While you're driving, hit 50mph, don't take it out of gear, and shut the engine off for a second. Turn the key back on, and give it some gas... does it stutter? If it doesn't, then you just need to adjust your clutch technique. If it does, you might try adjusting your key-on timing before you restart your engine using the clutch, or you might also try just starting it w/ the key instead of pop-starting it.

[cfg83]

Sulfuric -

For my OBD II 1999 Saturn SW2, I occasionally get an idiot light from bump-starts. I use the Scanguage and I invariably see that I have a P0336 error :

P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance

I have learned to clear the error and ignore it because I am doing something "out of the scope" of what the ECU/PCM expects.

You may have a similar (but different numbered?) error in your OBD I (?) system, but you can't use a scanguage to find out because you are pre-1996.

CarloSW2

[Sulfuric]

I just had a pressure moment and come out on the bottom. I've never messed up a start like that before.

I haven't had any problems since.

But I also have no idea how to clear the error.

Thanks for help, anyways.


And did you cant me to turn the engine off while in gear, and leave it off for a few seconds, then key on? Or do you want me to turn it off and then back on so the engine turns itself back on?

[TestDrive]

In hopes of selling you parts, auto parts stores like Checker & Autozone will often read and reset engine codes for free. Look under auto parts in your yellow pages and call around.

[Christ]

Most parts stores won't touch OBD-1 anymore, too many possible configurations and too many user-related errors w/ the scan tools and xlating codes into usable information.

OBD-2a/b is standardized, so the codes and the ALDL are all the same on any OBD-2 vehicle, which makes life easier. There is also only a master list of MIL codes, so less user error involved.

Many times, if you just google "ECU reset (vehicle year/model)" someone has already asked the question and knows how to do it.

for instance, in Honda cars, pre-OBD versions, you just pull the Hazard fuse for 10 seconds.