Metro pieces and parts

[me and my metro]

Drill the remains to remove, use regular screws on the replacement switch. I hate thieves!

[freebeard]

How about incompetent thieves? It could have been gone otherwise.

My neighbor says he has an extractor and he used to work on his father's Metro.

At the moment, I'm trying to get a tow company to return my calls. It will roll around in a circle but that's it.

[freebeard]

Look at the date on that last post. The ignition switch housing is in the hands of a 'mechanic' I don't know and have no way of reaching.

The removal was actually pretty painless. Someone had been in there before and the headless bolts had very professional slots cut in them for a screwdriver. Presently the steering column is re-secured but the turn signal switch and the actual ignition switch are dangling on cables under the dash. I can turn the switch with a smol screwdriver so the lights come on, but turning to start has no effect.

So I could light it up and bump start it, but I'd rather not.

There exist two blanking plates on the dash to either side of the steering column. I could see a red button in one for start and maybe a generic ignition switch in the other. What do all y'all think?

I wouldn't miss the column lock, but I need the housing back because it holds the turn signal switch.

[me and my metro]

A start button and a generic ignition switch would work fine. Or a generic ignition switch with a start position would be better. Remember the clutch pedal interlock, just jump the two wires if you are the only driver. Of course the clutch pedal is the best theft deterrent these days.
I got rid of all my Metro parts many years ago.

[freebeard]

I've no idea what the clutch pedal interlock is. There is a switch I believe to be the key in/open door buzzer. I'll try shorting that next.

Yesterday I rode the city bus across town and a prior bus was out of service and surrounded by police vehicles (A big white van with Forensic Evidence Unit painted on the side).

I just like the idea of a separate red button. Else I could put a switch under the clutch pedal like an old pickup truck I drove. Now that would be anti-theft.

[me and my metro]

The car came with a switch that looks like a brake light switch only it was on the clutch pedal. That switch is the only thing between the starter and the ignition switch on the start circuit.

[Gasoline Fumes]

I have a gutted ignition switch housing if you just want a turn signal mount. And I have a complete switch housing that I can probably (maybe!) find the key for.

[freebeard]

[waves at New York State]

Thanks. I'll settle for just getting the one on the other side of town back. Then we'll see if it's repaired. That was the plan.

I could add underhood insulation while I'm waiting.

[freebeard]

The guy that took my switch housing and disappeared hasn't returned; but Santa Claus broght me a whole steering column.

The original switch housing had pre-slotted twist-off bolts, but the new one doesn't.

So how do people do that? For clearance sake, a rotary tool could only have 3/4" diameter or a linear tool could only have 1/2" throw.

It looks to me like the easiest solution would be to weld a bolt on, turn it out and then get hex-head replacements.

[Gasoline Fumes]

In most service manuals, drilling the head is recommended. If you're cutting a slot, cutting into the clamp a little is fine. I think I got these bolts out once by putting vise grip jaws on the top of the head and the other end of the bolt. Assuming it protrudes a little. I don't remember what car I did that on. I don't feel like going outside to look at a Metro column! Maybe tomorrow.