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Old 09-26-2013, 04:07 AM   #11 (permalink)
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According to our experience, even a little bit taller gearing (14T->15T front sprocket) can help pretty much, while the effect of removing 20lbs is almost negligible. A whole 150-lb passenger with all the aerodynamic and weight effect can change FE by at most 10% - what do you expect from an almost invisible (frontal area-wise, hidden under riding jacket&pants) 20 lb?

Gearing (and the effect of its change) is model dependent, of course. There are ecomodded 250s with insanely tall ratios - our Ciliegia isn't like that. And Teresa runs w/ stock gearing (belt drive).

Other than that, exercising can really help.

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Old 10-01-2013, 05:10 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by star_deceiver View Post
You are not competing in the super GP... you do not have the skill, feel or talent to use the infinitesimal gain (for performance or FE) that a lightweight chain will provide. A lightweight, cheap chain will stretch quickly. A chain stretched beyond its usable limit could jump teeth on your sprockets and break which will, at best, leave you stranded and at worse ball up on the drive sprocket and rip a nice hole in your engine...

In summary:

Lose 20lbs, improve your aero, and buy quality parts that will last a long time.
We agree that a cheap chain is a bad idea. I contend however, that quality non-oring chain can be a good idea, but only if the chain is properly lubricated. A quality racing non-oring chain is still less than a good oring chain and with an excellent lubrication practice can last as least as long. My GPz550 used one non-oring chain for over 30,000 miles and it was still in good condition when sold. I was using one of the first Scottoilers in the US at that time.

That being said, my Chinese 200 had the OEM cheap chain on for over 6,000 miles (with a Scottoiler) and was still in great shape when I sold the bike. Since then I've cobbled together a manual on-the-fly oiler for my Chinese 250, after running in for about 1500 miles to get the crud out of the links, chain stretch or wear has almost ceased. Using leftover Mobil 1 75W90 gear oil.

Chain maintenance is critical to longevity, friction and wear. This cannot be overstated. Most people do a poor job of it, hence the popularity of O-ring chains.
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:48 PM   #13 (permalink)
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adding FI?

I'm thinking of adding a kit like this....400cc to 800cc Small Engine Fuel Injection Kit

I've been doing some research on it, and don't think it's been done much. That makes me want to just for the data, because then we would know if it makes an increase. (I'd be happy even with a small one.) Also, then a VSS sensor, and I'm good to go for my MPGuino install. ....And a waterproof case.

Feel free to tell me I should have bought a CBR250R instead. But, you've got to "love the one you're with." right?
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Old 10-14-2013, 04:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Had I the time and money, I would definitely go for it.
It needs to be self learning in order to get a correct map without requiring the service of a dyno and I believe this kit is fitted with a narrow band sensor wich is said (by more knowledgeable people than me) to be less than optimal.

That being said, I would be happy to follow a fuel log with FI fittment at some point.

There is a thread down there investigating the concept.

I'll go and seek it.
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Old 10-15-2013, 07:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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For cost effective mods the gearing is right up there. EFI is a good idea if your carbs need to be replaced as it is expensive, but it does allow some easy tuning and is probably fun to play with. You will not save enough fuel to get your money back, that's for sure.

For sure, significant aerodynamic improvements are tops in return on investment when paired with tall gearing.
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:48 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Most of your MPG loss on a bike is wind resistance - a much higher percentage than with a car. Engine off coasting is simple, but not really worth the hassle for me. I ride to have fun, and concentrating on coasting, bump starting, etc. multiple times per mile is not fun. Besides, motorcycles do not coast very well anyway, so there isn't a lot of gain there.
Motorcycles sip so little fuel at idle I don't bother turning it off at stop lights, unless it is a really long stop.

Gear higher, keep your cruising speed down and ride in a position that maximizes aero.
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Old 10-16-2013, 11:52 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mechman600 View Post
...Engine off coasting is simple, but not really worth the hassle for me... ...multiple times per mile is not fun. Besides, motorcycles do not coast very well anyway... unless it is a really long stop.
Fortunately I have a commute route where I can take mile-long glides, even twice. On flat roads I never bother to stop the engine while P&G'ing. And often not even downhills.

But lately, when I start from work (and go downhill almost immediately) I do: I saw how horrible numbers my car's FCD showed gliding there slow with a running (but cold) engine...

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