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Old 11-15-2015, 06:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I also reset the IMA light just by pulling the fuse. I have the Torque app on my phone and a Bluetooth OBDII adapter so I reset the check engine code as well after the IMA. I fully expected them to come back and in about 10 miles or so they did. I did the jumper on the OBDII and read secondary code. Only one a 78. So I guess the next thing is to try to sift through all of the grid charger possibilities and decide if I can put one together and how much I want to spend. Do these ever come for sale in the Forum?

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Old 11-15-2015, 09:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jamesqf View Post
Just seems like an awful waste of gas to me. One charge like that burns up maybe 3 months worth of autostop savings. (YMMV: I don't do a lot of city driving.)
Look at if from beginning to end. His IMA is non-functional. His auto-stop is not working. He gets no assist or regen. A few minutes of idling to maintain a constant charge (driving makes it very difficult to keep charging steady).

Imagine how much extra fuel he is burning with a non-functional IMA (probably a 10mpg hit) and compare it to a few minutes of idling to ensure constant charging.
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Old 11-15-2015, 09:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
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78 is actually good news as that can be triggered solely by imbalance, which the BCM interprets as deteriorated capacity; however, it can also mean the pack is complete ****e.

Get your 12V and grounds sorted immediately. If your red battery light comes on with ignition on, but stays off during driving, the car is charging the battery sufficiently. If the 12V is bad, replace it ASAP.

I have a DIY charger/discharger design for under $90.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:28 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S Keith View Post
I have a DIY charger/discharger design for under $90.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
Thanks! I would certainly consider building one of these but this is a little cryptic for my knowledge/skill level. Maybe with a bit more detailed instructions and maybe some pictures I would attempt. Or you could sell me yours for $150 and build another one for $90. Lol.
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Old 11-16-2015, 01:00 AM   #15 (permalink)
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7If your red battery light comes on with ignition on, but stays off during driving, the car is charging the battery sufficiently.
On mine, if the DC-DC charging is not working, I see both the red battery and brake lights come on - somewhat puzzling the first few times you see it. If you have a ScanGauge or similar, you'll also see the system voltage drop below 12 volts. When actually charging, it runs about 14.4 V, cycling between that and 12.x V. The car runs ok down to about 11.5 V or less.

I've seen two things cause this. First, a bad 12V battery, for which the only solution (AFAIK) is to replace it. The original small battery was impossible to find, but one for a Civic (Group 51?) fits in the box just fine. Second cause is a badly unbalanced pack. You'll see it start to happen on hard assist, then just randomly. Usually turning the engine off for a few seconds then back on will get it charging again, and doing a rebalance on the pack makes it go away completely for a couple of years. I think I've been through 3 cycles with mine.
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Old 11-16-2015, 11:21 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks! I would certainly consider building one of these but this is a little cryptic for my knowledge/skill level. Maybe with a bit more detailed instructions and maybe some pictures I would attempt. Or you could sell me yours for $150 and build another one for $90. Lol.
If you can run a drill, screw driver, wire cutters, etc., you can handle this. When the components are in hand, it gets pretty easy pretty quickly.

I would not be comfortable selling mine as I will tolerate shoddy workmanship in exchange for flexibility. I am adding/removing a PS frequently to account for different charging needs, i.e., IMA (<200V) vs. Prius (>200V). In other words... it ain't pretty.

Steve

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