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Old 07-17-2017, 10:08 PM   #41 (permalink)
JSH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Tele man View Post
Automotive MPG gauges are only high-tech "guesstimations" based on the premise that the A/F-ratio is always 14.7:1 which is NOT absolutely true (initial start-up, wot, over-heating, etc.)
When I connect a cheap OBDII scanner to my car it shows A/F ratios that vary based on conditions. Are you saying the onboard computer throws away this information and replaced it with a fixed number? Why would it be programed to do that?

I've found the onboard fuel economy gauge to be quite accurate in my cars. In the 130K miles I had my 2005 Prius the difference between my calculated MPG and trip meter was 1.4%. Tank to tank it could be huge (up or down) but the average was very close. I trust the MPG gauge more than the gas pump shut-off.

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Old 07-18-2017, 03:46 AM   #42 (permalink)
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I believe my Honda measures fuel usage by calculating it from the injection pulse length and frequency. But not all fuel goes through the injectors; some evaporates in the tank and gets sucked ito the airbox through the overflow canister. As a result, the mpg gauge is slightly optimistic.
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Old 11-26-2018, 12:40 AM   #43 (permalink)
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I'm currently doing Uber and Lyft, and took over payments on my brothers chevy Cruze to do it. in the Cruze just before they switched to winter fuel I was getting 46-48MPG pretty consistantly!! Now I'm only getting around 38mpg!!

What I did to get 46, was to increase the tire pressure to 44psi, dropped the oil weight to 0w20, and used amsoil signature sieges so that I didn't have to change the oil but every 25,000 miles. I also t to the amsoil fuel economy ATF oil.

just those have allowed me to get 46-48mpg consistently, and to drastically reduce the maintenance needed will driving Uber and Lyft. I'm planning on testing out cryogenically processing the wheel bearings, drum breaks, and break rotors to see if I can increase fuel economy more by trying to reduce wheel friction!!
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Old 11-26-2018, 03:21 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stovie View Post
I'm currently doing Uber and Lyft, and took over payments on my brothers chevy Cruze to do it. in the Cruze just before they switched to winter fuel I was getting 46-48MPG pretty consistantly!! Now I'm only getting around 38mpg!!

What I did to get 46, was to increase the tire pressure to 44psi, dropped the oil weight to 0w20, and used amsoil signature sieges so that I didn't have to change the oil but every 25,000 miles. I also t to the amsoil fuel economy ATF oil.

just those have allowed me to get 46-48mpg consistently, and to drastically reduce the maintenance needed will driving Uber and Lyft. I'm planning on testing out cryogenically processing the wheel bearings, drum breaks, and break rotors to see if I can increase fuel economy more by trying to reduce wheel friction!!
AMSOIL is a multi-level marketing company. Multi-level marketing is a fairly predatory business model, not so different from a pyramid scheme in some iterations. I know that AMSOIL is one of the less predatory ones - the MLM aspect is not typically a cult the way other MLMs like DōTERRA, LuLaRoe (not to be confused with lululemon, a legit non-MLM clothes brand) and Amway are often.

Driving technique is about 75% of optimisable fuel economy. If you drive a Prius hard you're gonna get poor consumption figures (and have a lot of fun doing so). Drive moderately. Accelerate reasonably hard (but not uncomfortably so; also, don't go into boost if it's a turbo) and shift early (if your car is a manual).

I would be doing the mathematics right now, and trying to work out if the markup on AMSOIL comes to less than just changing 0W20 full synth every 9,000 miles.

If most of your miles are fully warm, relatively gentle and you don't cold-start often, you can space your oil changes more with any oil, not just AMS or Mobil1. Frequent cold starts warrant a full synth oil with severe service oil change intervals of down to 3000 miles for some automobiles.

Oftentimes regular gas has more ethanol in it than premium. This actually raises the octane number to above that displayed on the pump (if the octane number is displayed as assuming E0) but it requires more fuel to be burnt per Wh of power released, reducing liter-for-liter fuel economy during any high-thermal-efficiency part of the cycle (e.g. high throttle, stoich mix, low RPM). It's important that you do serious mathematics to work out if regular actually costs less than premium. If regular costs 100 cents a liter and premium costs 105 cents a liter, then if there is less than 95.23% as much energy per liter of regular as in premium, premium is actually cheaper Wh for Wh.

Turbocharged gasoline cars generally need premium for optimum fuel economy and are still going to run pig-rich to prevent detonation. I would contact a tuning shop and get it detuned to run lean on regular.
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Old 11-26-2018, 09:12 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Ellenor2000, I get what your saying, but I drive 295 miles from st George UT to Salt Lake City UT to do Uber and Lyft!! Will Iím driving, I always fill up at the same places, and set cruise at 60 mph every time, so the number gains are over a consistent drive with as little variables as possible!! The first tank was around 36-38mpg, at which point I changed the engine oil, and got around 42mpg. Then I changed the ATF, and got it to the 46mpg. Now this is all on the same drives with cruise always set at 60 mph, and I donít touch the gas unless I have to!!

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