New tires, advise?

[Chris D.]

trust me, the picture do my truck serious justice..
I'll have it rust proofed before I leave if my timing is right..

bedliner FTW

And I over engineer the hell out of everything..

[RH77]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

In MN they plow and salt the living hell outta the roads by the time the 2nd snowflake hits. I suspect a lot of you MN "experts" don't even live in MN. I haven't run snow tires for over 20 years (and the vast majority of MN drivers don't either) and can't say there's been too many times where they'd have been of any benefit compared to the worn-out crap tires I usually drive on.

Let's make a comparison to the Winter of '05(?). Rented a Taurus to take the fam up to Minneapolis/St. Paul for the Ice Festival.

The MSP area is an exception to MN driving: lots of transplants from warm climates, who have little wits to drive in snow/ice. The Taurus had newer Continental all-seasons and it took skill and patience to handle the roads (and other drivers) . (ABS, but no fancy trac/stability-control or anything).

On the way out of town, cars in front of us were sliding out of control and into the median. We counted 16 cars/trucks and 2 tractor trailers in the ditches. Driving under underpasses was the riskiest: re-freezing. You could feel a little yaw but after a few, turning the wheel slightly to offset the weight/alignment imbalance eliminated that feeling.

I've done plenty of Winter driving in MN, ND, SD, WI (all 50 states, actually). Snow tires are good "insurance" if you wish, but all-seasons can do the trick.

RH77

EDIT: Winter driving in Southern Cal is different, after I re-read that last paragraph

[hvatum]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

In MN they plow and salt the living hell outta the roads by the time the 2nd snowflake hits. I suspect a lot of you MN "experts" don't even live in MN. I haven't run snow tires for over 20 years (and the vast majority of MN drivers don't either) and can't say there's been too many times where they'd have been of any benefit compared to the worn-out crap tires I usually drive on.

Live in MN here (Northfield, MN 55057).

http://www.terradaily.com/reports/Fi...ports_999.html

The chances are vastly in your favor that you'll be fine without snow tires. It's nothing like you will have an accident without snow tires. Just that you're safer with than without snow tires.

Also consider that people who don't use snow tires and are dead, are not here to say that people should use snow tires. There are lots of motorcycle drivers who don't wear helmets, and they're fine. Does that mean it's just as safe not to wear a helmet? Nope. That's bad logic. The people who got in accidents not wearing helmets are probably dead or mentally retarded.

You can get cheap snow tires for $30, it's a worthwhile investment. If you get nicer tires that can have studs than you can get INSANE grip on ice (but if you drive without studs you can't add them later).

You also might have tires that get good grip in the winter, but then you're likely loosing some performance in the summer.

In the long run, if you're going to own the car awhile, then the cost is not much if you have a second set of rims. Tires don't get bad based on age, but use. Just make sure to put the other set inside tire bags so they don't get damaged by corrosive gas.

EDIT: Yeah, I should say I live more out in the country than the city. Downtown Minneapolis is a lot less bad. Also it tends to snow less there.

[Chris D.]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

Rustproofing- HA! I have a prime example of a "rust proofed" rust bucket in the driveway. MIght as well take that money and start a bonfire with it.

Bedliner = worse than nothing, traps moisture between liner and box.

I was able to make my sisters beater Toyota Nova last for 3 minnesota winters (read winter beater) and not even a rust herpie under the paint.. She never maintained or cleaned the exterior throught out winter time.. My sister still has it out there and I'll take pictures of it when I get there..

I know what I'm doing and if I prep while in Dry California (like I did the Nova), I have very little to worry about in reguards to moisture..

For my truck I'll lift the cab, remove the bed, weld fill in all of the holes in the frame, few layers on the gas tank, ect..

good to go..

[Chris D.]

Hey Frank, what part of MN are ya in?

[hvatum]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

Studded tires illegal in MN

Hmm, good info. Didn't even know that until now since I don't use them (studs), just saw them in Montana and was pretty impressed.

I still think winter tires are worth getting. The only way they cost you "extra" money is for a second set of wheels, if you decide to get them. Otherwise the extra cost is $0, since you'll need to replace your wheels after say 100,000 miles anyway, if you put 20,000 on your winter tires, then that's another 20,000 you can put on your summer tires.

[Who]

Chris, have you thought about 215/85R16s? These tires are sold in load range D (65 PSI sidewall max?) and E (80 psi sidewall max?). The heights range from just under 30" to around 30.7" depending on whose tires it is. This is a common size so there are quite a few different brands to choose from.

[JerkOfAllTrades]

Originally Posted by thebrad

List of top LRR tires

http://greenseal.org/resources/repor...resistance.pdf

From the looks of it a winter tire made it into #6

Umm! That report is from 2003, what are the chances that list is current?

What I'd like is a current list or a way to determine from the sidewall info what the rolling resistance might be.

JOAT

[Chris D.]

Originally Posted by Who

Chris, have you thought about 215/85R16s? These tires are sold in load range D (65 PSI sidewall max?) and E (80 psi sidewall max?). The heights range from just under 30" to around 30.7" depending on whose tires it is. This is a common size so there are quite a few different brands to choose from.

That will wreak havoc with my gearing and speedometer ratings..

going from a stock 205-75-15 to a 215-85-16 is a bit too large..
When my speedometor reads 60mph, my actual speed will be 67.3mph..

now going from a 205-75-15 to a 215-65-16 id dam close...
When my speedometor reads 60mph, my actual speed will be 59.8mph..

right now I'm running 225-60-16's
When my speedometor reads 60mph, my actual speed will be 58.9mph..

So I think I'm on the right track for tire size.
I'm just trying to find the best deal possible for 60 to 80K tires and
an alighment all at the same time for less than 500 out the door..

So far Sears with their BF Goodrich Revelation tires with alighment $485 out the door.

Costco doesn't do alighments, but they have Michelin X Radials for $454 out the door and I believe their a better designed tire..

[thebrad]

Originally Posted by JerkOfAllTrades

Umm! That report is from 2003, what are the chances that list is current?

What I'd like is a current list or a way to determine from the sidewall info what the rolling resistance might be.

JOAT

It's the most official seeming list I could come up with, but there are a few more recommendations in this Wikipedia article.