06-14-2012, 12:05 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
Join Date: May 2012
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no alternater. How to charge battery?
I-am running this Volvo off the battery. I have this marine type battery. trickle charging is not getting it full charged over night. the 5amp setting charges it up in a couple hours to 12.8 volts. I-am going to forget that I have the charger on5amps and cook this battery one of these times. can I put the charger on a shut off timer? -any one got any wisdom on this? /sc
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06-14-2012, 12:27 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Administrator
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If you're going to be using it on a daily basis get a smart charger that you can plugin and forget. I personally went with Soneil brand chargers on my electric riding mower and my car with an alternator delete and love them.
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06-14-2012, 12:40 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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06-14-2012, 12:55 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Yes, you want a smart charger because it's not just about getting it to a set voltage then turning off, you want to do a bulk charge, then absorption then a float charge, from time to time you want to do a gassing charge, where it does "boil" them a little but in a controlled manner, a dumb charger will work but you are going to have to add water to the battery more often and it's not going to last as many years.
The smart chargers also tend to be solid state chargers and they tend to waste less electricity so you will come out ahead with an over all lower cost of ownership by having your battery last longer, using less electricity to charge it and the solid state chargers tend to be sealed up tighter so they last longer as well.
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06-14-2012, 03:15 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Have you considered small solar panels?
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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06-14-2012, 03:26 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Doug - '03 Chrysler PT Cruiser Base 90 day: 31.16 mpg (US) DR 350 - '92 Suzuki DR 350 S 90 day: 61.09 mpg (US) Sid the Sloth - '82 Honda Civic CVCC Wagon Last 3: 35.93 mpg (US) Rocky - '92 Daihatsu Rocky Last 3: 24.97 mpg (US) Mick - '97 Jeep Cherokee XJ UpCountry 90 day: 19.4 mpg (US)
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Two batteries...one for charging, one for using.
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06-14-2012, 07:20 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Thx. I have a little 1.5 watt solar charger that I stick on the dash. I'm sure it is doing nothing. I go about 60 miles before my Volvo dies. I keep a 2nd battery in the car and run a jumper to the engine battery. When I can tell its about to die .
I'll search on alt delete. All I did was take the alt belt off. all the dash light stay on all the time.
Is it ok to charge two batteries at the same time with one 5amp charger?
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06-14-2012, 09:18 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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I read a bit. decided it was too hot to be Conkin out and hoping the 2nd battery will start it up. I reconnected the alternator. It looks like there is one red hot wire from the ignition switch to the Alt. I plan to pull off the red wire and I think the Alt will free wheel. does that sound correct? Sc
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06-17-2012, 09:58 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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OCD Master EcoModder
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We drove Volvo 240's for about 15 years, I've removed and replaced those alternators plenty times.
If you disconnect that small red wire the alt MAY not put out any current. If so, the alt puts nearly no load on the engine. You'll save fuel if you do it that way. Just be sure to insulate the loose wire end. I like a bit of clear vinyl tubing stuck over a wire end, and duct tape that to the wire so it won't slip off.
To test whether the alternator is disabled or not - - -
Definitely rev the engine up to about 2000 rpm or so for a bit: sometimes with the exciter wire disconnected, the alt will not charge till it builds up some rpm speed. On my Civic, there's a connector with 4 small wires. With the connector removed, it doesn't charge at first - BUT once it gets up to about 2000 or 2500 rpm, it will start charging and keep charging till you shut it off, no matter what the rpms are!
An electrical multitester or voltmeter will tell you if the alt is charging or not. Plus probe on the battery positive, neg probe on battery neg or clip to ground. About 12.5V is battery normal resting voltage, it will be less if the battery is running the car with the alternator disabled. Normal charging voltage is about 13.5V to 14-ish.
If you want to read volts while driving you can get a plug for the cigarette lighter. Just buy some cheap doodad with a plug, snip the wire leads, and connect to your voltmeter. Just don't let the leads short together when it's plugged into the lighter socket.
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Coast long and prosper.
Driving '00 Honda Insight, acquired Feb 2016.
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06-17-2012, 11:05 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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What if you put a switch or relay on it so it charges when you engine brake and as needed by watching a meter or better yet, install a ELD from a Honda so it turns the alt on and off as needed vs continuous?
When I buy a battery charger I look for an automatic option just so I can set it and forget it. Ive cooked a battery or 2 and they do not smell good at all.
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