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Old 10-01-2010, 03:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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To keep use of the trunk take the kammback off get a yard stick open the trunk measure the distance from mounting point to trunk. Take that measurement and add about 2 inches cut the kammback deck to that length and reinstall. Open trunk and trim as needed to keep away from the kammback.

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Old 10-01-2010, 10:00 PM   #12 (permalink)
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was considering that but realizing that boattail is best, was hoping for longer. was thinking hinge but with or without hinge, need to find a longer term attachment way. am now thinking of getting struts done before doing underbody since that will just add to my labor cost later but not sure they are bad...snow coming (in MN) so not sure ground effects are worth much, might pull off, still thinking on that one.
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Old 10-03-2010, 10:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If you keep the kammback more of the way it is you could use double sided adhesive foam tape like what the manufacturer uses to hold on body pieces. I was thinking about doing that on my car but have not got very far on creating the kammback and my window is very curved at the sides leading to the top. I guess you could use a hinge at the top and some velcro squares are the bottom to hold it down.
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:10 PM   #14 (permalink)
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like your quote Phantom;
good idea on the tape, had bought some for prototype but didn't use but had thought use that with some duct tape outside of it to help with aerodymanics but wondered if others had longer term w/o drilling. was thinking hinge half way on top only and use an overlap piece of coroplast with magnets (velcro would also work) to hold it when it was in place but haven't made it...yet. hehehe
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Old 10-04-2010, 12:00 AM   #15 (permalink)
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ok, been reading and sounds like I need to ditch the square corners. also got a brain storm tonight, now to see if there was any electricity in the storm. I got a magnet, my rear window edges, not magnetic- bad. but body is magnetic...If one were to coroplast a kammback and then put adhesive magnetic tape on all the edges, would it hang on? at hwy speeds? anybody try that? saw luxbg did velcro on wheel covers (may try that one too) and thought about velcro but magnet is low profile and should do little damage to paint. I would think magnet would be strong with ~4ft long but would the adhesive hold? anybody try that?
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:15 PM   #16 (permalink)
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hey a fellow hyundai accent owner. from what i have read, i think you should try switching your upper and lower grille blocks, as the upper grille produces more drag, that way you can keep your lower one as the 'intake'.

interested in seeing your results.
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Old 10-08-2010, 01:47 PM   #17 (permalink)
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estomax, can you post a reference for the lower being less drag? i hate to redo w/o more info.
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Old 10-08-2010, 02:58 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Take a look around here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...bums-3541.html

In particular, this one for the grille blocking.


and this one for the front wheel arches.
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Old 10-08-2010, 08:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
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the upper grille block forces more air to go over the car, which has less resistance than the air going under the car. That is what i read somewhere here. The lower grille block will probably help too, but since you are now forcing air to go under the car then the gains are lower since it is more turbulent down there.

Sorry i couldn't find any references i tried searching but i remember reading something about it here some expert can chime in if they know

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Old 10-09-2010, 10:03 AM   #20 (permalink)
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You are right. It is better to have the air go over rather than under the car.

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