10-22-2014, 02:28 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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I believe, based on what I've read here, that I'll be installing a larger filter in my Insight when it comes time to change. Since it only holds ~2qts of oil, I can probably safely extend the oil change interval a bit too, given the larger amount of oil.
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10-22-2014, 02:32 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Administrator
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Sounds like with a bypass filter you can really extend your oil change intervals:
By-Pass Oil Filtration
Quote:
How long can an oil fill be run using by-pass filtration? We've heard claims of large (Class 8) diesels going 1,000,000 miles on the same fill of oil with no harm done to the engines. We have analyzed oils which have been in service 240,000 miles and found nothing unusual in the analysis, other than higher than average iron and lead (from steel parts and bearings), and these wear accumulations were not intolerably high.
After having run many tens of thousands of diesel engine oil samples, it is our opinion that a by-pass oil filtration system is one of the most important factors in extending oil drains. If you are interested in extended oil drains, we suggest you investigate adding this type of system to your engine.
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10-22-2014, 03:46 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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I change the oil on our 2008 Hyundai snota about every 5000 to 7000 miles.
Whats different about the kia/Hyundai 3.3L V6 is it has an oil filter that is only made of the filter element, there is no out side canister. So when you remove it you can see whats on it.
The filter comes out perfectly clean and a few times I have tried to wash dirt out of the filter paper with lacquer thinner. Looking for big bits of sludge, soot or metal shavings and I get nothing.
In heavy duty diesel engines some times you get a fuel oiler. Its a block and a screw that adjusts a needle valve that bleeds engine oil into the fuel system.
Idea is you adjust the fuel oiler to leak about a quart of oil into the fuel system every 2 or 3 thousand miles, that way you are always adding fresh oil to the engine.
That way the oil automatically changes its self and you don't have to stop for an oil change.
Some engines even have automatic crank case oil level controllers. You put fresh oil in the tank and as the motor oil leaks out it gets replaced.
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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10-22-2014, 05:04 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Thalmaturge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky
I believe, based on what I've read here, that I'll be installing a larger filter in my Insight when it comes time to change. Since it only holds ~2qts of oil, I can probably safely extend the oil change interval a bit too, given the larger amount of oil.
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The filter from the first gen civic hybrid is a perfect fit... same diameter, but just long enough to fill the available space (no shoehorning).
Purolator PL14610
Sam
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10-22-2014, 07:40 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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performance with economy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
If the oil filter has a by-pass valve its because the engine needs a bypass and does not have a permanent one installed.
All engines have a couple of oil bypasses built in some where. GMs have the bypass in the block and oil pump its self most of the time. Others use the oil filter to contain the filter bypass.
My 6.5L diesel has an in the block bypass for the filter and a bypass built into the oil pump. I installed a couple of washers to shim and increase in the filter bypass pressure, because I would rather have more filtered oil than unfiltered oil going to the engine.
The oil pump its self has a bypass set for up to 70 psi which it will never come anywhere near that pressure when warm. The oil filters I use (larger than OE spec) do not have a bypass valve.
For example my bug had an incorrect filter installed. When I got the correct one I noticed one key difference, the oil filter had a relief valve. Yeah that's not good for during winter cold starts.
No matter what you do include a filter by-pass relief some where, even if you set it to a higher pressure. Mainly for cold starts.
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Yes, we definitely need a bypass or 2 for the oiling system, cold oil doesn't flow well at all, especially in the winter!
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Messing with the engine oil pump is not an easy task.
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Most are difficult to access, but some vehicles enable you to pull the sump and take off/modify the oil pump without removing the engine, and others have the bypass valve head on the block capped with a bolt/copper washer.
Quote:
The filter bypasses I have seen will open any where between 5psid and 50psid across the filter media. The idea being dirty oil is better than way too little or no oil.
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I would prefer to have the oil filter bypass if the oil flow through it is restricted too much, as the typical filter media tends to swell as moisture is absorbed by the fibres, blocking oil flow somewhat.
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10-22-2014, 08:04 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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performance with economy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
I change the oil on our 2008 Hyundai snota about every 5000 to 7000 miles.
Whats different about the kia/Hyundai 3.3L V6 is it has an oil filter that is only made of the filter element, there is no out side canister. So when you remove it you can see whats on it.
The filter comes out perfectly clean and a few times I have tried to wash dirt out of the filter paper with lacquer thinner. Looking for big bits of sludge, soot or metal shavings and I get nothing.
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That engine must be in good condition, I'm guessing it hasn't got a lot of miles on the speedometer!
Quote:
In heavy duty diesel engines some times you get a fuel oiler. Its a block and a screw that adjusts a needle valve that bleeds engine oil into the fuel system.
Idea is you adjust the fuel oiler to leak about a quart of oil into the fuel system every 2 or 3 thousand miles, that way you are always adding fresh oil to the engine.
That way the oil automatically changes its self and you don't have to stop for an oil change.
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I have heard of this before, apparently it was utilized in a late 60s/ early 70s engine, I don't remember which manufacturer used it.
Quote:
Some engines even have automatic crank case oil level controllers. You put fresh oil in the tank and as the motor oil leaks out it gets replaced.
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That could be a good system for those drivers who never check their oil levels, personally, I don't fill the engine oil level to the full mark on the dip stick, only to the halfway mark, which still leaves 5 litres in the sump. The idea behind this is to get less oil mist going into the engine through the pvc system, and also less windage losses from the spinning crankshaft.
Here's a blurb on variable displacement oil pumps and the fuel savings they can give- https://www.asme.org/engineering-top...etter-oil-pump
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10-22-2014, 08:32 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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performance with economy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox
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I wouldn't be game enough to extend my oil change interval by too much, but then I run a 90s IDI diesel, the fast buildup of soot in the engine oil is a major concern. My fathers ford 6 cylinder petrol engine runs on lpg only, and hasn't had an oil change for 4 years now , obviously lpg burns cleanly and doesn't contaminate the engine oil much at all, the fact that he doesn't drive it very often no doubt helps here!
When I had the bypass filter hooked up to my Toyota 2.4 T.D. (another IDI soot producing engine), the oil visually stayed cleaner for longer, probably about twice as long compared to pre bypass fitment.
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10-22-2014, 09:25 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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performance with economy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky
I believe, based on what I've read here, that I'll be installing a larger filter in my Insight when it comes time to change. Since it only holds ~2qts of oil, I can probably safely extend the oil change interval a bit too, given the larger amount of oil.
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You might find this blurb on oil filter construction/filtering interesting!
Everything About Filters-All Black Diesel
http://www.austincc.edu/wkibbe/oilfilterstudy.htm
Last edited by blownoiler; 10-22-2014 at 09:36 PM..
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10-22-2014, 11:46 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blownoiler
that engine must be in good condition, i'm guessing it hasn't got a lot of miles on the speedometer!
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175,000
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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10-23-2014, 12:23 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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Eh- I've run big and small filters; the only difference I noticed was how big a mess it made when changing it. :/
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