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Old 04-07-2017, 05:55 PM   #3061 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes View Post
My car has both the J1772 as well as the Chademo plug. I think the J1772 is the cheap one, and the chademo is the freakishly expensive one.
Sorry - searched for Chademo and J1772 popped up instead.

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Old 04-07-2017, 08:06 PM   #3062 (permalink)
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Is this what you are looking for, Paul?

DIY CHAdeMO? - DIY Electric Car Forums
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Old 04-08-2017, 02:28 AM   #3063 (permalink)
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I think Jack Rickard has the plug now for $1300.
He faced the same problem (unobtainium) plugging into the Tesla battery junction box so he made two copper plates and jammed them in the holes and then built his own box onto them.

The same junction box BTW that shorted in the Tesla in Norway and the car burnt down from the plastics in the interior, not the batteries.
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Old 04-08-2017, 02:54 PM   #3064 (permalink)
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You could 3D print the connector, just remember it will not work well with heat.

Chademo semi-compatible dummy plug - for testing by qualified persons only by erroneus - Thingiverse

EDIT:
Oh... this was already posted, sorry...

Last edited by motorulf; 04-08-2017 at 03:03 PM..
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Old 04-10-2017, 08:32 PM   #3065 (permalink)
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I just bought the chademo protocol ($145) earlier today. Well, I'm pretty sure that's what it is. It was from Japan. They seem to say that the car commands the current, which would flush my MPPT charging idea down the toilet, as I can't send 100amp at 400v into the battery pack from my panels just because the car gets it in it's head that that is what it wants. If that's really how it works, I couldn't begin to guess why they would design it that way.
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Old 04-11-2017, 12:31 AM   #3066 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes View Post
I just bought the chademo protocol ($145) earlier today. Well, I'm pretty sure that's what it is. It was from Japan. They seem to say that the car commands the current, which would flush my MPPT charging idea down the toilet, as I can't send 100amp at 400v into the battery pack from my panels just because the car gets it in it's head that that is what it wants. If that's really how it works, I couldn't begin to guess why they would design it that way.
My understanding is that the car commands the current and generally does the charge control. So it asks for as much current as it can take - for fast charge and the like.

The Chademo, or the J1772, sends in a message how much current and at what voltage the current is supplied. I think this is several times per second. As the battery is charged, the Coulomb count rises, etc the car determines that it should be switched into constant voltage mode. It asks for less current until the voltage drops to setpoint for constant voltage, until the current drops under a threshold, or a timer expires, or some other criteria for 'battery full - stop now'. I think the procedure was originally a method to allow for the same request by the car from any charger.

EVTV posts that Tesla performs a 'reset' .. I think .. every minute or two to allow the charger to send a message with how many amps are available for charging ... or something like that. I can't locate the post just now ..

As for MPPT, I think it makes sense to implement and send the car the status message with output volts and amps ... see if it is OK with that. Damien Maguire has some (maybe a lot?) of logs of charging his land yacht at various charge stations. I think EVTV have code posted for both sides of the conversation. I'll have to look!
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Old 04-14-2017, 05:02 PM   #3067 (permalink)
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I've been charging the Leaf at 3.6kW with the split phase inverter that uses the same board as the AC control/driver board, but until now I was just taking the Solar DC input, and basing the AC output voltage on that. The problem was, under load, there would be more losses after the IGBTs so that even if the bus capacitor said, say, 500vDC, you would PWM that down to get a "340vDC" with which you would generate the 240vAC and 120vAC waveforms, it wouldn't REALLY be 340vDC. It would be a nonlinear function of the AC current.

I just finished populating an AC voltage monitoring board, and mounted it above the other board, and just got it wired, so now I'm about to test the new code, which keeps the 2 120v phase voltages balanced, and also keeps the sum of them equal to 240v.
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Old 04-22-2017, 01:56 AM   #3068 (permalink)
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I finally got it working reliably with no batteries, and just the solar.
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Old 04-26-2017, 02:43 PM   #3069 (permalink)
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Can Paul's circuit board be used with less parts ? I believe the Honda controller I am wanting to convert does not use Can. It runs only with PWM and another something I can't remember. I will dig up that CRS stuff and add it here ASAP
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Old 04-26-2017, 04:10 PM   #3070 (permalink)
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Can Paul's circuit board be used with less parts ? I believe the Honda controller I am wanting to convert does not use Can. It runs only with PWM and another something I can't remember. I will dig up that CRS stuff and add it here ASAP
Not sure what 'less parts' means. The parts it has drives 3 phases of IGBTs and measures current, uses encoder signal.

Perhaps it could run in Volts per Hz with no current sense or encoder, but less efficient and totally different (and much simpler) code. Is that what you mean?

Is there some parts that you think are optional?

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