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Old 09-08-2009, 12:30 AM   #71 (permalink)
The $500 Electric Car
 
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How hard would it be to have the shaft machined for a woodruff key? If you use a flat key (not a half moon/crescent) of the 1/4" variety, it should hold up to any load you can put on it.

Obviously, you'll still need to weld the pieces of the coupler together.
Well, to tell you the truth, I am too chicken to try to machine anything with the splined shaft or the female piece. If I mess it up, the conversion will be over....
But, you just gave me an idea of how to avoid welding after all! I can use a woodruff key to hold the female motor shaft piece and the clutch center firmly in place! Then, if I remove that useless bearing, I could drill and tap some setscrews there to keep the coupler from moving off the shaft. It won't have much of a load just keeping the coupler from moving...

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Old 09-08-2009, 12:33 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Google "Feather keys" if you're going to do a stationary key install. They hold the same torque, but can't slip when you're doing the installation, and won't displace over time, like some other key installations can.
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Old 09-08-2009, 12:37 AM   #73 (permalink)
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I used 2 separate couplers and a rubber spider. I welded the spine thing to the transmission coupler half, and jb welded the other half of the coupler to the motor post. The motor post was also keyed. Then, to keep the 2 halves together, I just used electrical tape. hehe. Then I coated the electrical tape in gorilla glue. It made a hard coating that is waterproof. It has worked fine for 13 months now.
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Old 09-08-2009, 08:51 PM   #74 (permalink)
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I'm guessing it should all be welded together and I could then put four setscrews to try to secure the new "one piece" coupler to the motor shaft. Ok, I doubt anything I said made sense: I have a hard time expressing myself.
Makes perfect sense to me. just make sure everything is centered when you weld it up. Do it just like you explained and it will work great. Only one change I would make to your proposed coupler is to eliminate three of the four setscrews and just use one. The way you have it set up will work if the setscrew goes through the "one piece coupler" and actually contacts the motor shaft itself. All that setscrew is doing now is keeping the coupler from sliding up and down the motor splines. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-08-2009, 10:53 PM   #75 (permalink)
The $500 Electric Car
 
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Actually, I just got done putting in a key. I Dremeled a slot into the clutch center and the female piece and slipped a key into the hub. Fits like a glove. I do not believe that there will be any more problems with the coupler. I also removed the bearing and drilled and tapped setscrews to keep the coupler from coming off the motor shaft. So that makes 8 setscrews alltogether.
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Old 09-08-2009, 11:55 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Wow, you must be really scared of that welder. lol
Nice to see you got it worked out though.
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Old 09-12-2009, 09:17 PM   #77 (permalink)
The $500 Electric Car
 
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So I pulled out the Dremel again and worked on the coupler. I Dremeled a section out of the clutch disk center piece and the motor's female piece so that I could use a key. The hub I am using for a coupler was made for a key. I also drilled and tapped two setscrews to hold the coupler onto the motor shaft. Lastly, I removed that useless bearing on the motor shaft female piece. I ordered an 11" disk of 1/2 inch aluminum from eBay (for $30!!!)for the motor to sit on. I plan on purchasing 1/4 steel plate to make the adapter plate section that goes to the transmission. I might still use 1/2 inch aluminum for that if I can find it cheap enough.

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Old 09-12-2009, 09:34 PM   #78 (permalink)
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So I pulled out the Dremel again and worked on the coupler. I Dremeled a section out of the clutch disk center piece and the motor's female piece so that I could use a key. The hub I am using for a coupler was made for a key. I also drilled and tapped two setscrews to hold the coupler onto the motor shaft. Lastly, I removed that useless bearing on the motor shaft female piece. I ordered an 11" disk of 1/2 inch aluminum from eBay (for $30!!!)for the motor to sit on. I plan on purchasing 1/4 steel plate to make the adapter plate section that goes to the transmission. I might still use 1/2 inch aluminum for that if I can find it cheap enough.

You may want to use a 1/4" piece of cold steel square stock to make your key, since you don't want it to shear in this case...

I'm not sure how much load that key will actually see, but I'm fairly certain it's going to get stressed alot.
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Old 09-13-2009, 10:04 PM   #79 (permalink)
The $500 Electric Car
 
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Wow, to be working on a Sunday....Those guys at Thundersky are FAST and THOROUGH with their customer service!!! So if I can find a way to sell my spare ICE parts for $1,743.50, I'll be going with Lithium ion batteries....

LFP40AHA

72 volts, 920 Ah, and about the weight of 1 Trojan T105...

Well I can dream can't I???
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Old 09-13-2009, 11:08 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Communist dictatorships have the people work on sundays. hehe. The 10 commandments are illegal there I think.

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