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Old 09-07-2009, 04:03 PM   #61 (permalink)
The $500 Electric Car
 
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Better video, you can actually see what's going on....


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Old 09-07-2009, 04:27 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Nice work. I like the final cabling arrangement, jumper cables!


If you try to fail, and you succeed, have you succeeded or failed?
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Old 09-07-2009, 05:10 PM   #63 (permalink)
The $500 Electric Car
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinny1989 View Post
Nice work. I like the final cabling arrangement, jumper cables!


If you try to fail, and you succeed, have you succeeded or failed?
Ok, excellent question. I am TRYING to succeed. I PLAN on failing. How often do things go according to plan?
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Old 09-07-2009, 08:05 PM   #64 (permalink)
The $500 Electric Car
 
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Ok, I admit it, now I'm just messing around! Here's 24v:



Yes, that is indeed a ziptie holding the motor in place
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Old 09-07-2009, 08:19 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Awesome!
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:01 PM   #66 (permalink)
The $500 Electric Car
 
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It's not ALL fun and games: I finally got around to pulling out the gas tank and exhaust. Those things weigh more than I thought. And it turns out that when pulled the motor, my coupler came apart! Right at the setscrews. I knew that my setup was weak, but I didn't realize just how bad it was. Looks like it's time to get the welder out of storage and figure out how to use it....
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:05 PM   #67 (permalink)
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I gave up on set screws and went to JB Weld.
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:07 PM   #68 (permalink)
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vpoppv, I seen you posting over in my thread about the coupler I used
Im just wondering if the coupler you are using to secure the motor and the tranny here is just one setscrew coupler with the setscrews holding the two hubs together and no welding? I wasnt sure if the youtube you have up is all its going to be of if you will end up welding it together. If you didnt weld it, you will have built yourself the worlds simplest torque limiter! The setscrews will hold the motor and tranny together till you put the wheels on the ground and hit the accelerator for the first time! To keep it super simple and get about 2 or so km from the coupler you could try to use a drillbit to make an indent in the motor and trans hubs and sink the setscews into them to create some positive coupling as opposed to the friction of the setscrews alone. I guess we'll have to see just how hard you are trying to succeed at failure
Fun thread, I'll keep watching this one.
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Old 09-08-2009, 12:09 AM   #69 (permalink)
The $500 Electric Car
 
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Swede,
I had four setscrews to hold the clutch center. It is becoming quite obvious that welding will be necessary. I thought all the lovely grinding noises I was getting was from the fact that the coupler was not held in place by anything: it was free-floating between the motor and the transmission (Could also be some flexing of the thin 1/8 inch steel I was using for an adapter plate).In reality, it seems that the coupler was in there pretty snug. The grinding was apparently the setscrews giving way. The larger setscrews connecting the hub to the female motor shaft piece were holding under the low load conditions. I'm guessing it should all be welded together and I could then put four setscrews to try to secure the new "one piece" coupler to the motor shaft. Ok, I doubt anything I said made sense: I have a hard time expressing myself. Here's a video, it makes more sense than my yammerings:

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Old 09-08-2009, 12:11 AM   #70 (permalink)
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How hard would it be to have the shaft machined for a woodruff key? If you use a flat key (not a half moon/crescent) of the 1/4" variety, it should hold up to any load you can put on it.

Obviously, you'll still need to weld the pieces of the coupler together.

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