SO what happened to THIS post??
Originally Posted by teoman View Post
I am gearing up to give this a go.
I have copper tape and kapton tape to create the plasma generators and as a power supply i have the module from a tazer and the electronics of ozone generators (they create plasma which creates ozone)
Would adding these generators to the wheel wells be beneficial?
And what is an initial good design for the rear of the car?
@ teoman:
aerohead is just fine with plain old tuft testing and mpg comparisons when boat tails etc that add weight are discussed.
Yet somehow DIY DBD requires a supercomputer..?
Tuft Testing:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...ing-38611.html
NB that around 98% of driving worldwide is city, stop-go driving where overcoming inertia (weight) uses up 68% of your fuel and aero drag only uses up 14%
https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...ban-41665.html
So a pattern is emerging in which it is obvious that modifications that consume more fuel than they save, on average, get a 'Ra-Ra! You go boy!' pat on the back from him, while things that might actually help get dumped on from a dizzying height, using 'big words' and phrasing that sounds far too technical and daunting to ever understand.
Someone who truly understands a subject, inherently has the ability to explain it to interested lay people in a way they will understand.
Doing the opposite is a sure sign that the person is simply trying to discourage you and, in all likelihood, has no idea whatTF the technical jargon they have spewed out actually means, if it means anything at all!
No links proving and explaining the often incomprehensible technical jargon are ever given.
That's another sign.
Also boat tails tend to 'steer' cars in crosswinds making for instability.
Then, as well made as it is, imagine driving this around town and parking it!
https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...tml#post183164
In short:
pay no attention to obvious troll like behavior and certainly don't ever be intimidated into deleting your posts!
(Normally I, like most here, wouldn't even bother reading his posts, but in this case he is 'Big Scary Boogymaning' you, who actually wants to try DBD and see for YOURSELF..!
To answer your questions: (in easy to understand, logical, layman's terms)
Basically with tuft testing a tuft that is staying downwind and relatively still indicates smooth, attached, low drag, laminar airfflow.
When the tuft is flapping about, every which way, like crazy; flow is unattached and turbulent and high drag.
So anywhere tuft testing shows a change from laminar to turbulent flow is a good place to put your DIY DBD.
Then further tuft testing around and after it would indicate if it worked or not, with old fashioned mpg testing as the last word.
Generally around the rear of the car, where it's 'shrinking' in size is where tufts start going crazy and is where DBD should help.
https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...tml#post696530
It might take some minor moving about of your DIY DBD to find the best place.
That's all part of the fun!
Voltages:
NB that the voltages you want are down in the low amp ionic breeze regime. Not up where a high amperage, welding type spark occurs.
If electricity was water in a hose; voltage would be the water pressure and amperage would be the water flow.
Power required is pressure multiplied by flow or P (in Watts) = Volts x Amps
You want high pressure (volts) and low flow (amps) so you that you don't need a lot of electrical power for your DBD.
Here's a graph that summarizes things:
You are looking to be in the "Corona to Normal glow" area of the graph.
What voltage that is exactly is hard to say.
It will mostly depend on the characteristics of your dielectric (Kapton Tape), so a controller for the low input voltage side, into your tazer or ozone generator is required.
If you tell us what exactly you have, we will be able to advise you further.