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Old 01-16-2008, 09:42 PM   #21 (permalink)
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No, carfax costs money IF and only if you want a full report. it's free if you just get a FREE history report. the only thing that it shows you IS THE VEHICLE MAKE/MODEL AND TRIM. THIS IS THE ONLY THING YOU NEED! which is a good thing. Try it, and if I'm wrong I'll change my user title to "I was wrong". If you put it in, you'll get a page that says your vin number, year, make, model, trim, engine type, where it was manufactured, # of records, and recall results, BUT IT WILL ONLY TELL YOU THIS, THEN IT SAYS IF YOU WANT TO FIND OUT WHAT THE RECORDS ARE, THERE IS A START MY ORDER NOW BUTTON! AND THEN UNDER IT A GO BUTTON. But you don't have to order a full report. Just get a limited free one.

Just try it.

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Old 01-16-2008, 09:45 PM   #22 (permalink)
Yaris What????
 
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For me a car like that requires alot of power to move at a reasonable pace and for the purpose you need it, it would be too much money to consider spending. You'd spend a considerable amount of money on batteries alone and the weight gains would be too much.
But then again my mind is set on a vehicle with lith batteries and two ac motors direct drive on the front wheels. Back to reality youd have to replace the suspension with the sho suspension to lower it without compromising the ride(and cheap) there are also gen 2 wheels that are I think 24spoke wheels, much more aerodynamic than any other available wheels. Rear wheels skirt and underbody cladding. after removing that hulking engine it will be considerably lighter but will still break the one ton mark.
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:01 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Can't lower it - there are too many big speedbumps around here.
if i lowered it more than just 3 inches then i'd have to get out and rock it off of the speed bumps. Grrrrrrrrr............

I didn't have time to get the vin off it today, so i'll try and find the time tomarrow (but family is coming into town so things can get hetic)

It basically sounds that it's just not possible to get what i want with a conversion of this car.

Should i find a project car in the future, what weight should i aim for?
(this way i can look up the info and check on that before buying it.)
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:06 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I would shoot for 2k pounds for a project car. This'll get you in the range of geo metros, crx, some civics, rabbits, and mehbe a few other cars that aren't too expensive anyway.
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Old 01-17-2008, 09:12 PM   #25 (permalink)
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K. now all i have to do is sell these two.... but i've been trying to sell BigBen for the past 6 months. Grrrrr...... they see my SkuttleButt and think "If he wants to sell the nice one instead of the ugly one then there must REALLY be a hidden problem in it!!!"
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Old 01-17-2008, 09:46 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I would suggest to try and sell to AutoRV, but they're only midwest! you've tried autotrader and stuff right?
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Old 01-17-2008, 09:53 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Yeap. Auto trader, craigs list, and a few others. but no luck. i only had one guy come and look at it. i have $1100 OBO. the problem is that the AC is in questionable condition and this is Arizona (summer highs in the 120F/49c) so apparently people don't like honesty when it comes to auto condition.

AC, seatbelt clip broken, needs a break job, has a doughnut. that's it. it's the only problems. Engine is good, tranny is good, radio works, beautiful interior, simple blemishes on the paint but not more than would be expected for being over 18 years old. but the AC? deal breaker. they won't even make me a OBO.
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Old 01-17-2008, 10:18 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Is it blowing just semi-cool air? mine was doing that when I bought it, I got some R-134a refrigerant and added some to the refrigerant lines. Boom, freezing cold air again. some people forget to check the refrigerant pressure level, and that causes the ac-motor to only kick on for a slight moment. if it's on high it should always be on, and on low it kicks on and off. if you don't know if the motor is working all the time, find the ac-motor and watch it with the ac full blast and on full cold. if the clutch on it engages for a little bit and then shuts off again, add some refrigerant until it's constantly on (if you don't have a gauge) and then do some more to top it off. Don't overfill though, that can be dangerous. if you do have a gauge, then just fill until it's in the green range and go inside of the vehicle checking the AC temp. mine went from warm air, to freeze your hand off cold just from filling it with one can of refrigerant. I did the use one can thing. I didn't want to use the second one I bought cause I didn't want it to have too much pressure. but I keep it in the back seat in case I need to refill it in the summer.
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Old 01-17-2008, 10:45 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Thanks, DPov, i'll give that a shot with my next paycheck. a few bucks here to sell the car there would be worth it.
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Old 01-17-2008, 11:06 PM   #30 (permalink)
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The Jeep! - '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ Laredo
90 day: 23.75 mpg (US)

The Caliber - '07 Dodge Caliber R/T
90 day: 30.6 mpg (US)

The 'Scort - '98 Ford Escort LX
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Just wondering, the AC DOES blow air right? If I were you I'd get one that comes with a gauge. I don't know how much they are though, but you'll need a nozzle to put it in anyway, so might as well get one anyway so you can put in the refrigerant.

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