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Old 06-18-2012, 02:16 PM   #211 (permalink)
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AWESOME! Keep up the good work.

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Old 06-19-2012, 02:17 AM   #212 (permalink)
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The turning radius is massive !

That is indeed a GT oriented "bike"
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:24 AM   #213 (permalink)
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Quote:
When I tilted the bike to my left side so that I could put my right foot on the throttle, I felt vulnerable to falling to the right. It turned out not to be a problem, but the mind plays tricks on you.
I would say you are vulnerable; a gust of wind or a miscalculation of any sort and you could end up sideways.
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:45 AM   #214 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Lee View Post
I would say you are vulnerable; a gust of wind or a miscalculation of any sort and you could end up sideways.
What is the reason you didn't incorporate a twist grip throttle? Wouldn't that make it easier to use your foot for stability and your hand to get the bike up to speed/takeoff?
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Old 07-02-2012, 05:17 PM   #215 (permalink)
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If the on board air compressor has enough CFM or linear electric motors, then a speed sensor could operate landing wheels. These would be 6-8" wheels on parallel arms attached to the frame just behind the rider. The mechanical parking stand would be toward the front.
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Old 07-02-2012, 05:31 PM   #216 (permalink)
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You can use a small air tank to allow quick deployment, if you need air at all. I highly recommend a two-part mechanical sequence that feels like pulling the handbrake on a car. Initially, you use a long, quick motion with a spring to get the landing gear onto the ground, at any slope and able to roll in and out of potholes. Then, just before the bike falls off of plumb, a second mechanism, possibly an over-center cam, clamps the rigid landing gear struts in position.
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Old 07-14-2012, 09:44 AM   #217 (permalink)
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Update 013
In the past couple of weeks I have been working on items from my list of what's needed to get ready for airfield testing. One important item is instrumentation, that is having an accurate working rev-counter and speedometer. As part of my work on these items I recently took the Honda to a rolling road that I use. The aims of the visit were to connect the tacho from the CBR600 clocks to the C90 motor and confirm the accuracy, and secondly to check the gearing and possibly power output.

Firstly the tacho connection, which proved to be a bigger problem than anticipated. The CBR600 tacho, in common with modern sportbikes, is designed to work from a positive (probably square wave) signal sent by the ECU. The C90, which never had a tacho, has only a “coil negative” signal available, which will suffice to drive an automotive multimeter but cannot drive the tacho. Although I could attach a multimeter for temporary testing purpose, I really want to use the CBR unit because it is integrated with the speedo. Although we found no solution that evening, I am just about to test a PNP transistor to convert the input signal – pushing the limits of my electronics knowledge.

The gearing/power check run proved even more disappointing. To hit my speed target of 100mph, the motor needs to run at 12000rpm, which means 6000rpm at 50mph, which is 80kph (the Bosch rolling road is calibrated in kmh). So I ran the bike up to third gear, watching the speed output on the control unit display and the rpm signal from the engine analzer, only to find it wouldn’t hit 80!
The engine had insufficient power to overcome the resistance of the rollers (which are meant to be “free rolling”) so measuring power was out of the question. A subsequent test in second gear proved that the engine revved to 8000 (could have done more but it seemed pointless) with reasonable AFR. The data we did collect confirmed that gearing should enable 100mph, but it looks like that will have to be done “on the road”

Here’s a shot of the test


For the record, this image also shows some other work that I completed
A) Alteration of steering mechanism from a traditional steel tube with clamps, to a fabricated aluminium control bar that is “bolted” and will house switch-gear and controls – also has improved stiffness and geometry.
B) Changed seat-back, now upgraded to Toyota MR2 item which is smaller, lighter and has recline angle control built in.
C) Exhaust silencer connected, unlike earlier test, the Apillia tip can keeps it suitably quiet for a “straight-through” style muffler.

Next step is airfield test – scheduled two weeks from now, then we’ll see if its gonna work.
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Last edited by visionary; 07-14-2012 at 02:31 PM.. Reason: Checked tech advice on transistor type and found it was wrong
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Old 07-14-2012, 04:36 PM   #218 (permalink)
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3 speed on top of the limited capacity hence narrow power band is definitely not a winner ...

From personnal experience, the power is not as big an issue as the gap between the gears.
(on my GN 250, a much bigger gear reduction resulted in reduced top speed wich I can only partialy overcome by trashing it in 4th - it is not streamlined to any extend thought but it does have 5 speed and a bigger capacity / torque)
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Old 07-15-2012, 03:33 AM   #219 (permalink)
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Wow, it looks like it's coming along! This has always been my dream vehicle. A true two wheeled Carver.
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Old 07-16-2012, 11:42 AM   #220 (permalink)
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I suggest that you try one of these for the most accurate and simplest to install form of speed, tach and other functions intrumentation.


I have one on my KLR and it's great. Not expensive and very rugged. Small in size but easy to read.
The tach and speed are simple to hook up. Mine even has a water temp display. And you can program two separate shift lights.
Computers: Digital Speedometers and Tachometers at Trail Tech Home

It will give you top speed, clock, trip odo, total odometer and stop watch to boot!
Sure beats trying to make a cable drive work at the proper ratio. This one is all programmable for any size tire or engine.

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