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Old 10-10-2012, 09:54 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomCat316 View Post
Peel ply is a real finishing problem-solver. Make sure the peel ply extends well past the edge of your layup so it's easy to grab and start pulling. Easier to peel off when the resin is still green, but not too difficult even after full cure - waiting to full cure will resolve amine blush issues as well. Post-curing in a heat tent or out in the sun (120-130F part temperature) for 4-8 hours will make it work even better and ensure best possible amine crosslinking prior to peeling and finishing.
I've never used peel ply, does it completely take care of the amine blush issue, or just reduce it?

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Old 10-11-2012, 02:00 AM   #112 (permalink)
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I'm struggling a bit now to rough out designs for the framing for the bed extension. The shell was all big, rough, measurements, but everything here is in fractions of an inch and there aren't any direct ways to measure relationships between points without disassembling. I might just need to pick up some metal and assemble/measure as I build it on the truck.

The extension frame (most of the green lines below) will attach at the rear bumper mounting points on the frame and to the bolts on the bed that hold the tailgate upper latch in place. The bumper will extend out past the end of the tailgate. I'll put some kind of x-bracing to make the extension rigid. It seems like I get rear-ended about once every 2 or three years, so it'll be good to have the bumper sticking out there.

I might notch the bumper mounts somewhere so that if I am hit, it bends downward, deflecting energy away from the shell. If bits of metal that extend the bed are kept lightweight, they'll distort down with the bumper w/o tweaking the bed.

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Old 10-11-2012, 02:04 AM   #113 (permalink)
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Didn't feel like it made sense to go ahead and start doing coast down testing until I had something to mount the side panels on that were going to extend the bed like I want in the finished product... so going to rough this out first...
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:08 AM   #114 (permalink)
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Wow you are trying to re-engineer your crumple zone. I would keep your vehicle softer in the back, let it crumple to the hard points.

I have always found it best to tear or cut strips to use as peel ply. Big pieces tend to wrinkle. The trick that I have found is to work only on the top side. Let gravity hold the layers together. Never had much luck trying to hold pieces up.

A bike and fairing I built and raced:

In the end I felt that the fairing was too long for maximum efficiency.
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:36 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Progress!

A few days ago, I put together a bumper extension:


Assembled:


W/ Bumper:



And yesterday assembled the Bed Extension. It goes just to the edge of the tailgate:


It mounts to the Bumper Extension below as well as to one of the bolts for the tailgate latch on each side:



At this point, I can start welding mounting tabs on this stuff and make nice shaped foam panels that fit on to the back and sides. Can do the initial fiberglass testing on these smaller panels.

Has anyone used these taillights?
AutoSmart KL-25117C-R Red Clear Lens Universal Stud-Mount Combination All LED Tail Light without License Illuminator : Amazon.com : Automotive

I have one of those trailer wiring plug kits on the back of my truck, so it should be easy to splice into it and run wires to new lights. I'm not entirely sure what to do w/ the original lights after I put new ones on the back... I guess I need the load from the blinker bulbs in my existing lights... Maybe I can use some bulb style side-blinkers for load on the wires, and do everything else w/ LEDs on the back... Hmmm...
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:02 PM   #116 (permalink)
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It look like the same lights that are on semi tucks for when they're not pulling trailer if you find the same lights without LEDs it should be a bite cheaper
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:18 PM   #117 (permalink)
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I've got two pair of these on my wood box, very very bright.
http://www.amazon.com/Flange-Light-T..._sim_sbs_hi_21
One pair is sufficient.
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:23 AM   #118 (permalink)
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Very interesting work! Love to see the progress.

Will the extra length add too much weight for the rear axle? (That is, keeping in minded the loaded shell space.)

Also, if you are using new tail lights, could you just start tapering in a little from the end of the truck sides to the new extended end without losing significant interior space while increasing aerodynamic release at the tail?
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:13 AM   #119 (permalink)
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Alright, I found a set of lights for $12 on summit racing.

Without any cargo, the whole thing shouldn't weigh much more than 100 lbs, I hope. Yah, loading it up with luggage might affect handling, but that just means driving more slowly. If I ever fit it up w/ water tanks or similar for travel, I can put those up front to help the weight distribution.

Looks like the max tongue weight for trailering is only ~350 lbs, so making a bumper rack for my motorbike might be out of the question with the bumper as far out as it is now.

For simplicity, I'm pretty much settled on the straight back sides now. I'd have to change too much to accommodate just a 3" taper on each side... meh.
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:09 AM   #120 (permalink)
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GROTE is a truck light supplier. Great catalog.

All looks good. And I agree on being careful with weight past the rear axle. Trucks are already compromised enough as it is in that vein.

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