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Old 01-12-2012, 11:48 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Well, a small updated. I mentioned I did this before, but never posted pictures. I tore the foam off the back side of the block. The reason being is that I need to attach the cabinet catchers somehow and they're not going to attach well to foam!

I'm not exactly sure how I'll attach the pieces yet. My one thought is to just fiberglass the metal piece directly to the block. The other idea is to fiberglass small blocks of wood to the block and then screw the metal pieces into the wood. That makes them replacable if they rust or don't work or whatever.


Peeling off the foam leaves a very rough surface.







The cabinet catches are going to need to be modified to mount them in the grill. The one on the left is how they come from the store. The one on the right is mostly modified. It still need a couple holes drilled if I'm going to use screws, and the slotted flanges need to be bent up to hold the rollers somewhat in place.


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Old 01-12-2012, 12:11 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
I'm not exactly sure how I'll attach the pieces yet. My one thought is to just fiberglass the metal piece directly to the block. The other idea is to fiberglass small blocks of wood to the block and then screw the metal pieces into the wood. That makes them replacable if they rust or don't work or whatever.
I like the cabinet catchers. I have wondered if they could serve for wheel skirts. Re: the wood blocks, would it be better to attach the catchers to the wood before to the fiberglass? It might be more difficult to hold the whole grill block steady while drilling, whereas you could drill evenly and precisely into the wood block alone easily?
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:21 PM   #63 (permalink)
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If I were to not use the wooden blocks, the metal would be fiberglassed right to the grill block by laying fiberglass material over the flanges and putting resin over it all. I am leaning toward the wood though. Its just more adjustable/easier and the wood blocks can also be used as guides to go between the grill slats and help line things up. At some point in this whole process the grill block did warp some and doesn't exactly line up as well as it once did. I'm not sure when this happened. It still bends into place just fine, but it does need to be bent a little, it doesn't just sit right in.
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Old 01-12-2012, 01:21 PM   #64 (permalink)
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I think you could hollow out a space with a sharp knife and then fill it with bondo. Drill the mounting holes in the bondo, a bit on small side, then thread in your attachment screws.

I copied your design to a considerable extent making a lower grill block for my Insight Gen 1. I use polyurethane sheet over the large opening surface to keep the foam out of the grill and to provide a release agent. Only proble I ran into was that the foam would not cure in the deep parts, so I had to take it out and slice off the back part to get it open to cure. Worked out ok. BTW, brake cleaner will disolve the foam and aid cleanup.

I have my first coat of bondo on the outside surface. Need to do some sanding and smootinging. I plan to attach mine with two very small self threading screws near the ends. Since the block is deeply recessed in the Insight, I think that is all I am going to need. My block has taken a slight outward bow at the ends, so small screws near the ends are going to be perfect - I THINK.
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Old 01-12-2012, 01:46 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Why not glass in some hooks and use a bungee cord like method to secure it?
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Old 01-12-2012, 01:54 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Accessing the back of the grill on the Prius is a bit tricky. There isn't much room at all and you have to remove a panel just to get to it. The entire front of the car is sealed pretty well to ensure that all air that goes through the grill actually goes through the radiator and not around it.
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:35 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
At some point in this whole process the grill block did warp some and doesn't exactly line up as well as it once did. I'm not sure when this happened. It still bends into place just fine, but it does need to be bent a little, it doesn't just sit right in.
Might it have helped if it had cured in place?
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:46 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
Well, a small updated. I mentioned I did this before, but never posted pictures. I tore the foam off the back side of the block. The reason being is that I need to attach the cabinet catchers somehow and they're not going to attach well to foam!

I'm not exactly sure how I'll attach the pieces yet. My one thought is to just fiberglass the metal piece directly to the block. The other idea is to fiberglass small blocks of wood to the block and then screw the metal pieces into the wood. That makes them replacable if they rust or don't work or whatever.


Peeling off the foam leaves a very rough surface.







The cabinet catches are going to need to be modified to mount them in the grill. The one on the left is how they come from the store. The one on the right is mostly modified. It still need a couple holes drilled if I'm going to use screws, and the slotted flanges need to be bent up to hold the rollers somewhat in place.

I've used those catches in a console in the past, and they will loosen up over time, you'll have to squeeze them every once in a while to tighten them up. If you insist on using them, I'd recommend glassing in some plates of steel that are tapped for machine screws. But if I were you, I'd just use Velcro. You can use wide patches of standard Velcro, or small patches of the industrial stuff. One advantage is that you SHOULD be able to put some resin down, let it tack up, and just press the Velcro into it. The resin should soak through the backing a bit and bond permanently. You might need to make some metal brackets to line everything up, but you can even glass Velcro to the brackets and Velcro the brackets to both the grille and grille block, it will allow some adjustability.

As for the warping, carve up some wood strips and glass them onto the back, holding it straight while it cures.
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:53 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Why not just glass in some rare earth magnets? I have played around with them, and slightly larger ones are amazingly strong. I have seen hooks with them that can hold over 60 pounds of weight!

So far it is looking great, I'm still brainstorming some gril blocks for my 92 camry and looking for a similar setup... removeable and looks fair to good.
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Old 01-14-2012, 02:58 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talonts View Post
But if I were you, I'd just use Velcro. You can use wide patches of standard Velcro, or small patches of the industrial stuff.
I was just going to suggest the Velcro myself before I saw this.

I have some of the industrial grade stuff in my shop, and it is mighty strong. But you should have no problem removing the block when required.

And unlike the cabinet catches, it is able to to hold on a radius.

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