Reviving a 2000 Honda Insight "beater"

[n8thegr8]

wow, what a find. I'm wanting to trade in my mustang for an insight here in the next year or so, and I'm having a hard time tracking one down in my area. Guess there's not too many eco-conscious people here in OK. Only hybrids I can seem to find are SUV's

[Red]

Thanks n8thegr8, there are a bit of a rare bird, but put up a want ad over on InsightCentral might get you some leads.

Got my shocks and junk in today and I started replacing parts. The back ones are cake, takes about 15mins tops if you are being slow. The front one isn't so bad, but the stupid CV joint on the passenger sides loves to hyperextend so watch that. I'll put up details on it when I finish off the drivers side tomorrow.

[Red]

No pictures this time around. Was feeling lazy and its pretty obvious what has to be removed anyway.

So to remove the back shocks


1) Jack up the rear end, can do one side or both, doesn't really matter. Make sure the vehicle is secure.
2) Remove the wheel covers and wheels.
3) The shocks are bolted on with 3 bolts; two holding the bar pin to the frame, one holding it to the "arm." All need a 14mm socket.
4) Unbolt said shocks
5) Bolt in new shocks, torque bolts to around 40 ft-lbs. FSM states something like 43ft-lbs top and 41 ft-lbs lower
6) Enjoy

Front Struts
1) Jack the front end of the car up. Make sure the car is secure before you start working on it
2) Pull off both front wheels.
3) Unbolt all the junk attached to the struts. There is a 12mm bolt that holds on the brake line, a 10mm bolt that holds the ABS wire, a 14mm bolt that holds the sway bar ball joint, and a 17mm nut that holds the tire rod end.
3) Remove the 19mm nut and bolt that holds the strut to the knuckle. Once its loose, lean the knuckle inboard to prevent the CV joint from hyperextending.
4) Unbolt the 3 14mm nuts up on the strut tower.
5) Pull the strut out.
6) If you have one and feel like you can safely use it, mount the strut on a spring compressor and compress the spring to take apart the upper spring perch. Else take your current strut assembly and the new strut to a shop and let them do it. I don't think they'd charge you that much since you've already done most of the work.
6a) If you are going to do it, make sure the spring is secure inside the compressor and compress it enough so that the spring is loose in the upper spring perch.
6b) Once compressed used a 6mm allen key and a 17mm wrench to remove the lock nut on top of the strut
6c) Pull all that stuff off, making sure to know what order it come off.
6d) Uncompress the spring and remove it and the strut from the compressor
6e) Pull the shock boot, and the bump stop off the old strut. The bottom spring cup should come off with the boot, else just pull it off.
6f) Assembly is the reverse the 6 series instructions.
7) Remount the strut and everything attached to it. Tie rod should be torqued to around 50 ft-lbs, lower strut mount bolts, 72 ft-lbs, top strut mount bolts 40 ft-lbs.

Enjoy the now smooth ride

[Red]

So spent the day tooling around in the Insight. Mostly errands. Noticed a couple of things

Still getting the P0420 error, but its intermittent. Something the ECU will fail the cat, other times it doesn't seem to care. There was a TSB about this where the ECU would be replaced, but I don't feel like forking for a new ECU over a light.

Drives smooth as silk, but my steering wheel is slightly off. Figuring I need an alignment. Going to try a driveway alignment probably tomorrow to see if I can get it ball park.

Feels good to fill up and only pay $30 bucks for almost a whole tank of gas, ~7 gallons

Did get a recal while driving, happened yesterday too. Battery pack seems to run better after each recal, so no biggie.

Maybe I'm biased, or just nuts, but while the Insight is very cool to drive, its also pretty boring. There is very little excitement to the drive. Shift her into first, rev up to around 1-1.2k, clutch and go, no noise, no real feeling of acceleration, no sensation of major movement, just quietly and fairly effortlessly putter up to speed. You could be revving around 5-6k in first and you just here a jet engine like buzz. Theres no drama. Its just mundane. Handles well though, easy to point and shoot.

Other than that, shes running pretty fine

[ttoyoda]

There was a TSB about this where the ECU would be replaced,

Wouldn't the ECU be free to you if there was a TSB on it?

[Red]

I thought that TSB were voluntary in the sense it doesn't count as a recall?

[n8thegr8]

it depends, my gf's dad works at a ford dealership, and as far as the TSB's go, there's voluntary and recall. Sometimes the voluntary are free as well, it's just whether you want to do it or not, since it's not a hazard, it's not mandatory. I would just call up your closest dealership and ask, it's worth a shot.

[Red]

Yeah I'll ask them when I go in for my headlight recall.

Anyone know if bad gas could make the O2s think my cat has failed?

[ttoyoda]

Anyone know if bad gas could make the O2s think my cat has failed?

If it had lead in it or something else that will coat the O2 sensor and block the pores so the oxygen cannot get in, then yes. Or if you got antifreeze on them or used non-sensor-safe silicone caulk on the engine.

[Red]

Originally Posted by ttoyoda

If it had lead in it or something else that will coat the O2 sensor and block the pores so the oxygen cannot get in, then yes. Or if you got antifreeze on them or used non-sensor-safe silicone caulk on the engine.

Hmmmm was hoping for an easy way out. I guess its dead then. Might try the whole dunking it in lemon juice for a while and see what happens. Can't kill it even more