S-10 Pickup Ecomods

[bennelson]

Hey Everyone.

I have a 95 Chevy S10 Pickup truck - 2.2L 5-speed manual that I would like to be able to get 30 MPG from.

I have already removed the mechanical radiator fan from it and replaced that with an electric fan. ( http://forum.ecomodder.com/showthread.php?t=1444 )

I would like to build an aero cap for it.

I am also considering lowering the truck and adding an air dam or belly pan.

Does anyone have experience in lowering vehicles that could give advice?
Here are two kits for lowering a truck. What do you think of the prices and what's included?

Kit 1


Kit 2

Both are for a 3 inch drop in front and back.
The one is for $110 and the other is for $270.
Can I "build my own kit" for significantly less?

I am going for fuel economy - any "looking cool" is only a side effect. Frankly, I could only ever look cool on accident anyways.

All comments welcome!

-Ben

[trikkonceptz]

The only difference between the two kits are the shocks. Most kits will include shocks because once you lower a vehicle beyond 2" you risk bottoming out the oem shocks and therefore rendering them useless and giving yourself a horrible ride.

If you are looking to save cash, then buy the kit without the shocks and if you ever feel the need to buy new ones because you blew out the old ones then spend the extra $60 at a later date to replace the shocks.

[JohnnyGrey]

Isn't the 2.2L S-10 already rated for 30hwy?

[bennelson]

Here's what the FuelEconomy.gov says:

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/calcu...umn=1&id=12136

21 city, 26 highway.

[brucey]

My buddys 89 S10 gets 35 mpg city with some EOC and 31 mpg highway with a camper shell on it. Oh yeah, it sits on the ground and looks like this too:



He says the thing that has helps the most is he thinks lowering it, the front air dam is less than an inch off the ground and it drags everywhere.

[bennelson]

Wow - that truck has been modded for theft deterrent too!!!

Lowering and an air dam hey? Guess I must put those on for next on my list.

[bennelson]

I just ordered "kit #1". - springs and blocks to lower the truck 3"

It should come for this weekend. Hopefully I should have time to install it.

I have never worked with springs before. I need to go rent a "spring-compressor", right?

[adam728]

Dang, I'm too late.

Good luck with the 3" drop, I would have only recommended 2". Some guys say alignment with 3" coils is no problem, others have a lot of issues. Also 3" in the back puts you about on the bump stops. It's the point where many guys will start to channel the frame to give the axle more up travel. We did 3" blocks on a buddy's Sonoma years ago and the back bottomed out everywhere.

Shocks shouldn't be too much of a problem. Since the bumpstops aren't moved (you are only riding lower in the travel) the compressed length of the shock will end up the same. Its just that drop shocks usually are stiffer and better control the now very limited up-travel.

I had a 98 S-10, 4 banger 5 spd. Dropped it 2" with coils up front and blocks in the rear. Ended up adding air shocks, as the truck was worthless once dropping the back. 300 lbs worth of dirt bike and gear would leave it squated and bottoming on everything (not that it was much better stock).

I am surprised your mileage is that low with that truck though. 25 mpg was probably one of my worst tanks in my 98 (granted the head/intake/exhaust is a little different).

[reformed]

Yea you will need a spring compressor, and be careful with it if its a cheapie! The ones that are essentially just clamps can fly off if you're not used to them. We used to use them until one day it did, and would have easily taken someones head off if they had been in the direct path of it.

Also, trikkonceptz is right about the shocks. with a 3" drop and stock strut/shocks you will prematurely wear them out and they won't perform that well because they weren't designed to be used with that small amount of travel. You may also need caster/camber plates if your tires tuck in too much when you're done. The best way to lower your front would be through drop spindles, this way you still have roughly the same geometry for your suspension. I'm no expert by any means, a long time ago I had a garage and my partner did hydraulics, lowering, and airbags and such and I just used to help him with the suspension when I wasn't doing my thing.

[trikkonceptz]

If the rear bump stops become a problem then hack'em. The are solid rubber and about 4" long, cut them down and re-install and you should have no issues unless you apply load to the bed ...