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Old 08-14-2008, 10:32 PM   #61 (permalink)
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I removed my rear spoiler today and hooked up a vacuum gauge boy ti really help my gas mileage this tank I predict will be 400+ city

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Old 08-18-2008, 08:06 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Hello,

I'm finally uploading a picture of my second set of wheel skirts; this time they are made out of Coroplast, with an 1/8" diameter metal rod inside of the bottom corrugation tube, to stiffen it.

I have since removed the AirTabs, but I may attempt to make some homemade vortex generators.
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Old 08-18-2008, 08:29 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilBlanchard View Post
Hello,

I'm finally uploading a picture of my second set of wheel skirts; this time they are made out of Coroplast, with an 1/8" diameter metal rod inside of the bottom corrugation tube, to stiffen it.

I have since removed the AirTabs, but I may attempt to make some homemade vortex generators.
Nice! Someone on the scionlife forum recently posted a picture of an xB with a really nice set of fiberglass skirts, and about half the replies had to do with how horrible they thought it looked, while some of us (those that realize that you can improve the shape of an xB) thought it was great.

I'd love to have skirts, but I'm hesitant to use coroplast. I'd actually prefer something a bit more permanent.

Do you have anything other than tape holding them on?
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Old 08-18-2008, 08:37 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Very nice looking Skirts! Nice color too!

Too bad about the AirTabs. I was thinking about getting a few to install on the
trailing edge of my OEM belly pan. Maybe smooth the flow under the oil pan..
I may just make some VG tabs out of plastic to try the idea.

You should try duct taping over the holes in your rims. I don't know if there is any MPG change, but my CRV is making less road noise on the highway now and I think that might be a good thing..
I can hear my GPS & car radio better now..
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Old 08-18-2008, 09:09 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Hello,

I could use some Velcro, or some screws (if I didn't mind the holes), or some sort of internal fasteners. But, for me the tape is great, because if I have to change a tire, I can just peel the tape off. In the winter, they have to come off anyway )slush and frozen gook would clog everything up faster than anything!

The tape is flush, it is quite effective, and all I have to to to remove the stickum is use a little Goof-Off and/or alchohol.

Coroplast is lightweight, easy to cut and fold, very durable, and cheap. (I paid $20 for the 4x8 sheet.) The hardest part (by far) was shaving off the back face and the ribs, so I could have the outer face form a flange that is nearly flush. I would make yours out of Coroplast to test their effectiveness, and then to use them as a pattern if you want to make them more permanent.

The line is where I had to bend the full sheet to get it into my car...
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Last edited by NeilBlanchard; 08-18-2008 at 09:14 PM..
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Old 08-18-2008, 09:49 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Magnets or double sided industrial strength tape are other alternatives to drilless attachments. Can't wait to hear how they affect FE. You do the xA proud!!!
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Old 08-20-2008, 11:21 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Hello,

I'm contemplating revising the current Coroplast skirts to fit like the earlier set I had -- I think the the flush leading edge may be better for FE; despite the tire itself sticking out. There may be air coming out from under the car that is held "in" by the longer skirt?

I have still not beaten my best tankful; which was with the acrylic (shorter) skirts.

Another thing I am trying to figure out, is the effect of the plastic "bulges" on the rocker panels? It looks like they could be taken off -- does anybody have any experience with their affect on the xA?
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Old 08-24-2008, 02:34 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Hi y'all,

More updates -- here's the stock undercarriage of my xA, with all the voids and very rough edges -- the rear bumper fascia and frame are "sails":


Here's the partial belly pan I made out of Coroplast -- I added a bit more Gorilla tape to the left side to lift it up and support it (I looped it through the tow eyelet).



I have the front edge of the Coroplast tucked into the beam suspension, and the back edge is tucked above the bottom edge of the bumper cover. The tape is just to keep it from shifting around. It does move a bit when the beam/rear suspension move, and I'll keep an eye on the tape.

I've added "wedges" to the part of the front of the wheel skirts that stick out, to try to smooth the air flow and to reduce drag:



And last but not least, here is my revised grill blocks; leaving less than 1/3 the areas open. It is still keeping cool enough -- I have seen a small increase in the coolant temperature at slow speeds, but it is not enough to worry about.
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Last edited by NeilBlanchard; 08-24-2008 at 02:52 PM..
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Old 08-25-2008, 05:55 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilBlanchard View Post
Hi y'all,



I have the front edge of the Coroplast tucked into the beam suspension, and the back edge is tucked above the bottom edge of the bumper cover. The tape is just to keep it from shifting around. It does move a bit when the beam/rear suspension move, and I'll keep an eye on the tape.
How's the coroplast fairing around the muffler? That's the killer for me, is the routing of the exhaust system. I think someday, I might get a shortened exhaust that exits in front of one of the rear wheels, but in the meantime, I'd like to cover up the rear of my xB's belly as you have. If the coroplast doesn't melt for you, you've given me some ideas.
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Old 08-25-2008, 06:24 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Hi,

The Coroplast is bowed down (because it bends under the springs) and it is at least 3-4 inches away from the muffler. I'll go look right now, but I doubt that the heat has done anything to the Coroplast.

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