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Old 05-13-2014, 07:46 PM   #21 (permalink)
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My best guess would be once the damaged components are replaced, and wheels balanced, it shoud drive and ride like a new car.

Hope it works out that way and then you can enjoy the Corolla for years to come.

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Old 05-13-2014, 07:55 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Baltothewolf View Post
both the rims on the front and both the control arms were shot.
That is the information I was looking for. Thanks.
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:12 PM   #23 (permalink)
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On a good note

Control arms are generally just made from stamped metal with 3 sides with 1 side open. They make the front end parts to give way and bend/break before frame is inline to absorb the impact from curbs , potholes , slight collision.

Also some control arms do not have replaceable bushings so when they wear after 150,00 miles or so you need to replace the whole part rather then a $10 bushing
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:31 AM   #24 (permalink)
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One more way to visually determine if you have suspension damage. With the steering wheel centered and the front wheels pointed exactly in the direction to travel straight down the road, stand 15 to 20 feet away from each front wheel and look at how the tire-wheel sits in the wheel well. It should be perfectly centered in the wheel opening, front to rear.

Most collision damage and suspension damage will cause the tire-wheel to sit further to the rear of the wheel opening in the fender. The distance from the wheel to the front and rear of the wheel opening in the fender should be the same front and rear.

If there is a difference in that distance, especially from one side to the other, then you will see that in a front end alignment as an out of spec difference in castor angle. When one wheel is closer to the rear wheel than the other wheel the castor angle will be under the specifications. It will usually cause the vehicle to track towards the side with lower than spec castor. The wheelbase will be less onthe side with the wheel sitting too far back in the wheel opening.

There is a small difference in castor angles in every car from oen side to the other. This makes the car track straight down a road with a crown to promote runoff of rain. If the castor angle was identical then the car would drift off to the right on US roads and to the left on roads in England and other countries where cars drive on the opposite side of the road. So in England the castor angles would be different so the car would track straight where traffic travels in the left lane with steering on the right side of the car, just the opposite of US and oither roads where the steering is on the left side of the car and you drive on the right side of the road.

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Old 05-14-2014, 08:25 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
One more way to visually determine if you have suspension damage. With the steering wheel centered and the front wheels pointed exactly in the direction to travel straight down the road, stand 15 to 20 feet away from each front wheel and look at how the tire-wheel sits in the wheel well. It should be perfectly centered in the wheel opening, front to rear.

Most collision damage and suspension damage will cause the tire-wheel to sit further to the rear of the wheel opening in the fender. The distance from the wheel to the front and rear of the wheel opening in the fender should be the same front and rear.

If there is a difference in that distance, especially from one side to the other, then you will see that in a front end alignment as an out of spec difference in castor angle. When one wheel is closer to the rear wheel than the other wheel the castor angle will be under the specifications. It will usually cause the vehicle to track towards the side with lower than spec castor. The wheelbase will be less onthe side with the wheel sitting too far back in the wheel opening.

There is a small difference in castor angles in every car from oen side to the other. This makes the car track straight down a road with a crown to promote runoff of rain. If the castor angle was identical then the car would drift off to the right on US roads and to the left on roads in England and other countries where cars drive on the opposite side of the road. So in England the castor angles would be different so the car would track straight where traffic travels in the left lane with steering on the right side of the car, just the opposite of US and oither roads where the steering is on the left side of the car and you drive on the right side of the road.

regards
Mech
I did this and everything lines up. Replaced another bent rim today, and got the control arm fixed, still the same shimmy in the steering wheel. It's not as violent as it was before, but it's still there and is still unbearable. I'm at a complete loss and am now out of money. Fun stuff.
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Old 05-14-2014, 08:47 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Take it back to where you bought it and tell them to fix it. Take the reciepts from the alignment shop.

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Old 05-14-2014, 08:49 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Take it back to where you bought it and tell them to fix it. Take the reciepts from the alignment shop.

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Problem is, I bought it 'as is/no warranty'... Do I still have a basis to take it back and complain?
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Old 05-14-2014, 08:55 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Problem is, I bought it 'as is/no warranty'... Do I still have a basis to take it back and complain?
You agreed to that without a test drive that would have revealed the shimmy?

Implied warranty - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This basically says you might have success, but if you signed that right away then you are probably not going to have success with the dealership. Your best chance would be if the sale was at a retail price.

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Old 05-14-2014, 09:18 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Check the rear rims for damage as well, and for out of round tires or bulges inspect them closely or have a friend look them over, jack each tire off the ground and spin with intent on catching a bump or lump or bulge.

I agree you should take it back to the repair shop, be friendly they missed it but ask them to recheck it as your not happy with the repair job -

I have pointed out a bad tire to a few people with a shimmy, although those types of a shimmy have happened even at low speed
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Old 05-14-2014, 10:59 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Have someone follow you on the highway. Get up to 65 or whatever speed when the "shimmy" gets severe. The person following you should be able to see the tire-wheel that is hopping and causing the shimmy. It could be more than one tire-wheel. If it is on the front of the car move it to the rear. A shimmy is a rapid side to side oscillation of the steering wheel and usually not related to balance, but I'm thinking it may be a severe vibration that is related to and out of balance or out of round rotating component.

I don't enjoy getting information piecemeal, it makes trying to help anyone much more difficult. That being said, you are now in the position of having a car with an obvious defect and probably no recourse, even with California's consumer oriented laws concerning dealers and vehicles.

I've been there and it's a helpless and stressful situation. Try the latest suggestion. I have been in a similar position and if the "shimmy is balance or damaged tire related and it is severe enough, then it should be visible to someone who knows what to look for.
Nothing was mentioned about the bent rims after two shops "balanced" them. I just stopped when I saw a damaged tire or bent rim, and called the customer to offer them the chance to see the problem, since charging them for a balance was wasting their money.

Nothing has been offered as information that might be related to the damage being done to the exiting tires, but if that is the case and the tires are the same ones that were on the rims when the impact occured then you could have a damaged tire that has not been replaced.

Bottom line is have some one follow you and see if they can actually see the wheel hopping that is causing your shimmy. If they can do that then you KNOW that wheel is the source of your problem, at least the major source. Put the spare on in place of that wheel and try it again.

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Mech

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