Smaller battery closer to the starter = weight savings?

[JRMichler]

Still a fair number of airplanes around without electrical systems. They are started by pulling on the propeller, AKA the Armstrong starter.

I once flew a 1947 Beech Bonanza with an old, worn, undersized battery. It started OK in warm weather, but would not turn over one cold morning. Fortunately, I had a passenger who could pull on the prop while I hit the starter button. Between the two of us, it started.

I also had a motorcycle with an undersized battery. It started fine in warm weather. One cold morning up in the mountains, I had to build a fire under the engine to get it started. A small fire, but it left smoke tracks up the side of the engine.

I am not a fan of small batteries.

[Frank Lee]

Originally Posted by Sven7

Surprised Frank hasn't mentioned this yet... talk about weight savings! Just make sure your health insurance is paid up.

I have, in the past... same topic. IIRC I posted a pic of a Microbus equipped with a pull starter.

[Cobb]

Ive had the pleasure to hang out with JimE. He manages to park on a hill no matter where we go so he can coast off and bump start his insight. If he had an older bug with the magneto he wouldnt need a battery or starter.

[jere]

I have been using Hawker Odyssey and generic $40 e-wheel chair style sealed batteries for about 10 years now. They weigh about 12lbs over the factory 40lbs. The only time I have had problems starting the car is when the battery is long expired and on it's way out. The key is to mount the battery in the car where it is warm and drive the car every day or two. Just don't try this with non sealed batteries unless you have them sealed in a vented (outside) box

If you wanted you could leave the batt mounted in the engine bay and just bring it inside on the really cold days IMO too. It is just held in by 4 bolts, not a big deal to unbolt.

Oh and with lightened/removed stuff like flywheel, AC, powersteering, waterpump, it will make it easier for the starter to crank the motor so you will need less power from the battery.

[Xist]

I remember reading a thread on here about someone replacing the battery with a lithium stack. Has anyone done that besides Oil Pan? Everyone said that it would never pay for itself, among other things, but the author enjoyed it.

I was surprised how small the battery was in the Civic HX, which also only uses a half-radiator.

[oil pan 4]

Originally Posted by Xist

I remember reading a thread on here about someone replacing the battery with a lithium stack. Has anyone done that besides Oil Pan? Everyone said that it would never pay for itself, among other things, but the author enjoyed it.

I was surprised how small the battery was in the Civic HX, which also only uses a half-radiator.

I mainly enjoyed it because of the room it freed up under the hood, moving the batteries made room for 2 turbochargers, a big air cleaner and an air compressor. 100 less pounds of battery weight means I can carry 100 more pounds.

[Xist]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

I mainly enjoyed it because of the room it freed up under the hood, moving the batteries made room for 2 turbochargers, a big air cleaner and an air compressor. 100 less pounds of battery weight means I can carry 100 more pounds.

I imagine that replacing a hundred pounds of batteries with a hundred pounds of turbochargers would make a noticeable difference.

[PaleMelanesian]

Originally Posted by Xist

I was surprised how small the battery was in the Civic HX, which also only uses a half-radiator.

Take that small battery and chop off 1/3 of it. That's what the Fit has. (Insight as well, and maybe Prius too?)

Edit: no. Prius has a slightly bigger one.

[nackerton]

Has anyone tried LiFeYPOs as a start battery?

EV-Power | WB-LYP40AHA LiFeYPO4 (3.2V/40Ah)

Four of those connected in series and you have a 100 Ah lead acid battery replaced (atleast in terms of cold cranking amps).

[NoD~]

Curious: Couldn't one get "best of both worlds" with a very small 12v battery on the main supply line (alt, engine, accessories), then diode to a cap boost pack (like seen in prior video) that connects directly to starter? My thought is, this would keep the cap charged much longer and keep vehicle more reliable for longer durations, but provide the "instant" power to the starter, even if you run the battery dead from a stereo or lights on. Definitely higher cost all together, but just a thought.