Started my frontal block on my 98 Neon...

[NoD~]

I'll let most of the pictures do the talking, but I threw down some "matching" duct-tape and some chloroplast this weekend to get started on what will hopefully improve some decent MPG...

Baseline start, no blocking at all...


Sides and under license plate...


Created an "air tray" to help force more air into radiator...



Gardening air dam...


And finally, started the upper-area blocking...


I did some coast down tests the other day for comparison, so well see the difference these mods made.

I have the seals for the headlights, but I want to restore them before putting them on. I will also either seal up the turn signals next to the headlights (probably with foam weather stripping), or I will remove them and put them elsewhere and block across the whole thing.

I also plan to lower this puppy. I have some lowering springs, but still debating on if I want to use them (reviews say they lower more than most struts can handle).

Tire spats would be another thing I'll do doing in the future. Along with under belly pan and the other usual mods... but wanted to see what the thoughts were on this first round of mods.

Any suggestions or anything?

[Krayzie]

Grille block looks clean. Great choice with the red tape!

[euromodder]

Next on the Modifications list : buy a car with a color that matches tape

PS :
Keep an eye on the temperature gauge when doing mods like this.

[NoD~]

lol, yeah the red matches alright... can't complain!

Definitely keeping an eye on temps. Haven't really driven it far yet, nothing beyond the standard warmup (~4 miles per trip). I think I'll wire up an LED to see when the radiator fan comes on as well.

Here's a pic at a distance... the tape is a hair brighter than the car... hoping that dirty roads even that out...

[TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL]

Definatey watch the temps, usually the plastic airdam shown below forces air into the radiator at higher speeds, without it neons overheat in high temps, even without a grill block. In 88 degree weather, my temps stayed at 210 degrees with the grill block on my car, and that airdam removed. Stock fans come on at 216.

Stock airdam


My grill block, also a 98

[NoD~]

^^^ I saw this pic floating around and it is what gave me the idea of colored duct tape for my basic block! Thanx for the inspiration!

[TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL]

No prob, good to know its inspiring other people. I know theres someone on the .org thats planning a hypermiler as well, posted today about disabling the asd relay to shut the engine down while coasting.

Let me know how your temps look. I was thinking about putting a temporary duct while I wait on my fiberglass supplies, but I havent driven the car in a month as I'm waiting for my extended shifter and extended steering column and pedals.

[NoD~]

Alright, I did one last change prior to coastdown testing...



The original upper didn't have much angle and didn't look quite "right". So, I rebuilt a new version that is more angled and has a bit more bracing to it.

Here are my coastdown results... (only did 2 runs on the same road each before and after, so 4 runs total... then averaged)



After 45 seconds, coasting from 45 MPH, it went from 20 MPH to 27 MPH on average. Hopefully these results are accurate.

As for cooling, my constant stop, turn around, and do 35-45MPH for a good 30 minutes on a 95*F day got it to 200*F coolant temps, but never budged any higher. The intake temps went from 123*F last outting to 132*F. The intake is located right under the battery, which is basically in front of the radiator.

Let me know your guy's thoughts on the coast down test... does it seem accurate for the modifications performed?

Oh, one last thing...
I assume that, just like an air dam helps with cooling... lowering the vehicle should offer a bit more "forced" air into the radiator?

[MGB=MPG]

emphasis
""Keep an eye on the temperature gauge when doing mods like this"".

your fairing mods seem quite smooth and *apparently* show reduced drag.

i have thought about putting some blocks in similar to your uppers , however i feel they should be adjustable louvers [flappers] ideally opening anytime the cooling fan kicks on , manually operated *could be* adequate , if the operator remembers to open them when needed for cooling

200F operating temp is ok , i have 195F thermostats in my machines , i presume the small ducts allow road air in to the radiator , which may work adequately at road speeds, however overheats are more likely at a stop or at very slow road speeds , when you have to depend on the fans for cooling air ..

[fusion210]

Cool! The more ecomodded neons the merrier.