SuperTrapp Mufflers?

[Duffman]

Concrete,
Go for it, you will still have a few feet of pipe in the system after the collector?

[Concrete]

Duffman,

yes
in fact I was just considering trying to get the system down to car size
right now it goes all over Egypt

if I could get it down to ~4' of pipe a muffler and then a tail pipe after the cab
it has got to be half the back pressure of the OEM kludge
(space wise the systems are tripping all over each other on this truck)

but I do not want to go to all the trouble and make things worse if the system is in harmony

[Duffman]

I think a lot of the testing that is done that is just an open header suffers from the fact that exhausts like a bit of pipe behind the collector, you should be good with 4'. I would do it.

[metromizer]

Originally Posted by Concrete

let me clarify my position
I'm not able to perfectly "optimize" - no track or dyno....I am looking at simplification of the exhaust
header will remain unchanged and I will keep a muffler
but I'm looking at reducing the long and twisted path of the exhaust
(it is crisping my wiring and rattling loose due to poor geometry)
so this is a very mild exhaust change compared to what your are describing

Can taking half the distance & bends out of a truck length exhaust help?
or is it too complicated to make that call without a dyno

The short answer: If it were me, I wouldn't spend to much of MY effort in just cleaning up bends while replacing an OEM exhaust, a good muffler shop is your best friend with that, those guys work cheap and quick, plus have all the tubing and tools. I suspect you have over the axle routing that looks almost pitched off from the factory bends, a good muffler shop can do a much better job than that if you ask them too. In California the tail pipe needs to exit behind the passenger compartment, at least that was my understanding of the code when trying to get a fix-it ticket signed off for modified exhaust 30 yrs ago. It also my understanding rucks can have the tailpipe exit out he side, just aft the cab. But you want to be careful, if you have a shell on your truck, I have had exhaust gasses find there way under my old Datsun's cap, and seep into the cab via the connector boot between cap and cab in that truck.

The OEM's usually fit the exhaust where they can, it's not always the best. On the other hand my atempts at re-routing always seemed to solve one interference issue but create two more.

[metromizer]

Oh, a good reason to NOT use one of these on a car: They have an annular discharge, that is, exhaust gasses escape 90 degrees to the exhaust pipe.

I would imagine the pressure wave reverberating against the underbody, driving you nuts on a long trip. Guys with Flow masters get away from some of that by using 'downturn' tips. Those won't work with a supertrap

[dremd]

Originally Posted by metromizer

Oh, a good reason to NOT use one of these on a car: They have an annular discharge, that is, exhaust gasses escape 90 degrees to the exhaust pipe.

I would imagine the pressure wave reverberating against the underbody, driving you nuts on a long trip. Guys with Flow masters get away from some of that by using 'downturn' tips. Those won't work with a supertrap

You basically have to put the exhaust exit out from the body work a few inches; otherwise you will have soot on your ride, and it will be even louder. If I remember correctly it was in the instructions . . .

Not defending . . . .

The only people I knew who kept them were super low riders who just couldn't clear a conventional muffler.