Maybe
And I may should invite my girlfriend (shiNIN is her nick at other places) as she has more experience with our GV250.
Anyway, in our 'house competition' my plan is to change tires. I haven't had a single 90+ mpg tank since I have these Heidenau K73s, so I can hardly wait for the front to wear off... bad that there's no info about motorcycle tires' rolling resistance.
Now I think a pair of Michelin Pilot Road 3 would be better, it has a harder compound in the center so it lasts longer - at least the rear should last much longer, I'm consuming the 3rd K73 rear with the same front, and it's not even the end of its life! I hope the Pilot Road is better at RR too. Metzeler Z6 was clearly better (and took higher pressure), but felt somewhat unstable around freeze point.
Pressure: I use the K73 at ~2.5/2.7 bars front/rear (~37/40 PSI) while the Z6 didn't sensibly distort at 2.9 bars / 43 PSI.
BTW, my "EPA" numbers aren't based on EPA tests, they're just factory data for 90 and 120km/h (~55 and 75mph) constant speed cruising. There's nothing about layman's city driving, for example - even though I'd be curious.
OK, I can still use some more 'realistic' data from Fuelly:
BMW F650CS MPG Reports | Fuelly
Does the GN250 has any EPA data anyway? I don't know the model's history, but as it's an old one, it may have been discontinued even earlier than F650CS (which was in production only between 2002 and 2005, what a shame! Good that Honda has the NC700, which seems to fit ~ the same needs - though it's heavier than any F650).
GV250 fuelly data:
Hyosung GV250 MPG Reports | Fuelly
On hypermiling: My very sensible experience is that coasting when you need to slow down is a huge factor. I don't think it's anything new
After 111000km Teresa's dropout bearing died and I hardly used the clutch except for shifting gears, and you can see my last two tanks: the difference between them is rather large.
I always P&G downhills, I FAS when I expect to glide (or stand still) for at least 30-40 seconds and traffic permits. I have 3 such FAS points on my usual route to work along the ~23km / 14mi. And another, where I don't even turn on the ignition key, so I have to add that 800m (0.5mi) to the trip meter every time I roll down there - we live near a hilltop so I can call it potential parking, along a dirt road with practically no traffic.
I shift as early as I can, it's ~3200-3500rpm, depending on the gears. From 4th to 5th sometimes I even rev more, especially when I climb a hill with a passenger. We had an interesting discussion here at ecomodder about the effect of higher (or too low, to be more precise) revs, and I tried to P&G in 4th on one commute, staying over 3000rpm, but not having a trip FE display, I'll never know the result on FE... and I didn't experiment with it more, because the drive belt (which wasn't in the best shape) began to lose its teeth, exactly over this experiment.
Because I started to accelerate very gingerly after losing a bunch of teeth and almost never shifting to 5th (the latter is surprisingly good at winter, staying at appropriately low speeds, like 60km/h at max), and that tank became worse too... accelerating without proper load looks bad for FE too. I can imagine that even accelerating at much higher revs is equally good too as long as you shift into the highest gear immediately when you reach the speed you want to hold - or start gliding.
The other thing the belt made me stop is bump starts. I just can't do it really smooth. I've become much smoother along the years, but I just can't bump start that large cylinder smoothly, and I'm afraid it contributed the belt's premature death too (I call 41000km premature, the previous one lived for 63000).
Also, I hate to engine brake, I only use it for speed moderation on steep downhills, where I basically trade gas for brake pads and discs... except I have one trick I sometimes utilize: I turn off the kill switch while engine braking, forcing Teresa into DFCO. Beware, it won't work with carbureted bikes, and it will probably have very unpleasant side effects. But it really needs a long, steep downhill, otherwise the 650 single has a
too strong engine brake. And very uncomfortable. Just imagine, I cruise along in the city at, say, 2600rpm in 4th, and I want to slow down. The engine will stutter at ~2000, so I can't engine brake for long... shifting back to do so is out of question, to clutch, shift, use gas to rev match, use more gas to slow down (no, she won't easily go to DFCO)... no way. I just glide and use the friction brakes when I can't do anything else.
Hm, these are the machine related tricky things. The common sense part is very similar for any vehicle, I guess. Don't accelerate too much if you know you'll have to stop, look ahead, anticipate, keep longer distance, time lights if you can, don't speed... these are the same.
Climbing hills is a tricky part too, and it can be very different with different vehicles. For me climbing up at a steady speed, accelerating at the crest, gliding (or P&G-ing) down seems to work the best, but it's again some vague feeling, lacking the proper instrumentation. DWL is not that good with such a strong engine with strong braking ability and narrow rev band. Uphills I'd have to shift down very soon and the other size wouldn't accelerate back to my normal speed, I wouldn't even reach my upshift speed. Really, the engine holds me back on a decline once I shifted back to 4th, even with the same throttle position.
(Oh my god, I hope there's SOMETHING useful in this wall of rant...)
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Heck, I'm not even willing to mess with the unique F650CS design 
