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Old 10-26-2009, 11:43 PM   #251 (permalink)
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OK, picture time....

First is the 1" flat aluminum strut, next is the PVC pipe that I heated and bent to shape, it is fitted with Velco for a quick release (didn't feel like drilling holes if I'm not sure I'm gonna keep them..., Next is the fibre reinforced plastic sheet with the cut outs of the skirts, lastly is the finished product. They don't fit perfect, I tucked in the front and left a gap on the back as they overlap onto the rear bumper cover. Have had them up to 70mph and no issues.

Next are the HAI. 3" dryer duct from HD, ducted tapped onto the snorkel and routed to the radiator. Pretty simple.

Then the smashed O2 sensor that killed my mpgs

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Old 10-26-2009, 11:47 PM   #252 (permalink)
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Wheel Skirts - Sweet.
HAI - genius.
O2 sensor - Can you remove/re-clock the piece of pipe that the sensor is in, so that doesn't happen again?
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Old 10-27-2009, 12:02 AM   #253 (permalink)
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Nice thread

On my setup with the turbo I found out that I get my best results running IAT temps around 135*F. But now with the cooler temps outside I'm not getting the same IAT temps and it hurts my FE big time.

I truly believe that a warm IAT can help any engine.
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Old 10-27-2009, 01:34 PM   #254 (permalink)
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Can't clock the O2 sensor. I'll leave it be and try to avoid Dukes of Hazard type stunts again I don't think I have any pictures on here of how it is mounted, but it's a real tight fit. If I can get rid of the AC compressor next year, then I'll have some room.

Yep, High IAT's are good. I've seen some pretty big differences between ambient and 120 degrees. I've had IAT's as high as 180 during the summer with no negative hit on the mpg. But now that it's cold, I can barely get 10 degrees over ambient with the full grill block. I like my header wrap, but it may have to go because it is keeping my underhood temps too low
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:52 PM   #255 (permalink)
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Why does your valve cover look so different?

Your skirts look so nice. Where did you get the material for the skirt?

I could easily put full skirts on if it have the bottom aluminum piece like yours. I already have 3 brackets on each wheel well and the top half the template made up.

I'll wait for you to provide some better info on gains as well.

I'm really hoping to find some coroplast this friday while I'm home.
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Old 10-27-2009, 04:25 PM   #256 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ View Post
Is your header in front or back?

I think the best way to do an "WRAITH"** so far is probably another heater core in the OEM airbox with a flow valve in the fluid line, and monitoring the IAT sensor. Pipe the OEM airbox to the nose of the car, so you get the ram effect.

** Warm Ram Air Intake THing.
Thats perfect! Cool the engine while warming the intake air.
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Old 10-27-2009, 07:54 PM   #257 (permalink)
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My valve looks different because of the Coil On Plug conversion, no gain from that though.
Aluminum strut is from HD, 1" flat stock about $13 each. The skirt is Fibre Reinforced Plastic that is used for shower walls. 4x8 sheet for $27. It's flexable, cheap and can be heated and bent. It is smooth on one side and has raised bubbles on the other.
I don't think there is any question they are worth it. Just need to do some testing to prove how much they are worth.

PGRPro, are you running 135 degrees with 25:1 lean burn?
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Old 10-31-2009, 01:22 AM   #258 (permalink)
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Made the new partial under tray. Coroplast from front bumper that reaches where it ends right before the front wheels. I took off the black air dam underneath and was able to get one bolt through the coroplast. I have another spot wedged up through the tow hooks. Took a bolt out on each wheel well cover and shoved the coroplast between that and the bumper. It's pretty much held up besides that with just the way it's wedged in.

It might be dipping a little too low in the middle. I guess we'll see if the gas mileage drops or not.
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Old 11-16-2009, 01:20 PM   #259 (permalink)
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Woo! Two tanks in and it seems to be at least +1-2 mpg. My last fill up was my best tank since driving back and forth between Bloomington!

Only change is undertray (which removed the small air dam) and fresh mobil 1 oil.

Engine temps are a lot better as well. Before it'd never break 186 and now its right around 195 and only as high as 211. The removal of the a/c radiator really increases the cooling of the radiator. Before with just a tray between bumper and radiator I would see consistent temps between 210-220.

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