Top 5% FE Tank with Odd Malfunction

[ron]

honda pump was accessed from the trunk just behind the seat back not in or under the passenger seat , pull carpet back and look for dimples in the metal on the lt side drill one out and see if its the one over the sending unit , then use tin snips and cut a circle out big enough to remove the sending unit and pump.(no sparks/ no power tools)

[some_other_dave]

Originally Posted by RH77

The first under-hood items I checked were the wires and boot seat (too many times has a set of cheap wires arced and failed). The cap was replaced at 110K-ish and rotated to full advance for FE (premium fuel used since, plus the warm air intake needs higher octane). Referring to the manual, is this the Ignition Control Module? If it doesn't stall again, should I move on to other fixes?

The cap, rotor, wires, and plugs should not affect the tach. The signal comes from the ignitor, which is inside the distributor. (Or, at least, it is on the 1990 CRXes I used to have.) I don't know if that is also called the Ignition Control Module.

The ignitor tends to be on the expensive side (over $100 if I recall correctly) so it's probably not something you want to replace "just because". If the tach keeps jumping all around and not reflecting what the engine is doing, the ignitor is a suspect. Wire connections like grounds would also be suspects, and are a lot cheaper to address.

-soD

[ron]

save your 100$ for the distributor and spend it on the pump, your going to need it anyway with 165000, check the web. If you find that its the same as a 1996 accord I will sell you a used good unit for 30$ with shipping included, they take about 15 min to install. and when you pull it REPLACE the small hose below it ! that will save you a head gasket when it lets go.

[bestclimb]

ICM is suspect as they will fail intermittently before going out. 75 bucks was the cheapest I could find one.

next time it fails try this

Part 1 -Honda Igniter, Ignition Coil Test (1.5L, 1.6L, 2.2L, 2.3L)