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Old 10-11-2009, 08:53 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Supposedly, and according to the study that Tas posted, the K&N is actually able to flow more air than no filter at all. I can actually believe this in some cases. Have you looked under your filter lately? It's probably got the worst fluid dynamics profile you can imagine. You'd want something there to straighten out and train the airflow to a specific direction.

I still use a T-Shirt for an air filter. It's washable, and doesn't require oil or a $50-$150 initial investment.

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Old 10-11-2009, 11:40 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueflame View Post
But as far as getting screwed in the a** by an air filter company goes...
So who's getting screwed? Not me: I've more than saved the cost of the K&N filter on the Insight from not having to replace the OEM paper ones (which I can only find through the dealer :-(), plus instead of throwing a bunch of plastic and stuff into a landfill every 10K miles or so, I use a miniscule amount - maybe a teaspoon or so - of oil & detergent.

Now if it did increase fuel economy, that'd be a plus, but I haven't seen anything like an honest test (other than that link from Darrin, which I think was too short for accuracy), just people spouting off their opinions. So where's the real-world test? Put one in a vehicle, drive a couple of thousand miles, or at least a tank or two, and see if mpg improves.
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Old 10-11-2009, 11:46 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jamesqf View Post
So who's getting screwed? Not me: I've more than saved the cost of the K&N filter on the Insight from not having to replace the OEM paper ones (which I can only find through the dealer :-(), plus instead of throwing a bunch of plastic and stuff into a landfill every 10K miles or so, I use a miniscule amount - maybe a teaspoon or so - of oil & detergent.

Now if it did increase fuel economy, that'd be a plus, but I haven't seen anything like an honest test (other than that link from Darrin, which I think was too short for accuracy), just people spouting off their opinions. So where's the real-world test? Put one in a vehicle, drive a couple of thousand miles, or at least a tank or two, and see if mpg improves.
Have you been flow testing your old filters? How can you be sure that they actually needed to be changed? Sure it would only take 2 filter changes to make up the cost of the K&N filter (recharge kits are more, but you probably don't use very many of them.)

Also - If you can only find your filters at the dealer, you're not looking hard enough.

Honda Insight Air Filter
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Old 10-11-2009, 11:47 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
So where's the real-world test? Put one in a vehicle, drive a couple of thousand miles, or at least a tank or two, and see if mpg improves.
Or a dyno

Has everyone forgotten the premise of the thing?

EFI.... intake restriction.... unless at WOT.... engine probably doesn't care if the restriction comes from the throttle plate or the rest of the intake... ?

Quote:
plus instead of throwing a bunch of plastic and stuff into a landfill every 10K miles or so,
That there is just ridiculous. All the elements on my stuff are practically all pleated paper which must bio-degrade pretty well, and that lil foam seal might degrade too, I don't know how long that one takes. And replace every 10,000 miles? Maybe if you live in Iraq.
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:29 AM   #45 (permalink)
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I have 3 pods pulled off wrecks sitting in the garage, but I should sell them as I realized HAI was really useful for me, which pods dont allow as easily as my standard configuration.

Actually, in fact, the engine manufacturer designed the vehicle intake to match all the other intake and exhaust components, including the exhaust system restriction. To only whack on a pod, is not enough to balance the engine. You need the chrome plated gear knob to really make it run well.

I dont want to loose CAI on demand (during accelleration) and HAI during cruise which is standard on the Pug205, or have sucking noises. Paper filters last for 5 years plus and DONT use more fuel as they age a little, high speed power does eventually suffer, but torque and economy often improve.

Put on a pod.

Slower warm up.
Use more fuel.
Sucking noises.
Less Torque.
Heat loss via 100% cold intake.
Dubious filtration.
Feed the crazy K&N monster.
Chinese clones 1/4 the price
Tee shirt-free.

Pods normally go with a performance rechip or 02 sensor and really kill fuel economy.
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:07 AM   #46 (permalink)
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autospeed.com

had quite some articles about air intake modifications.

what i've gathere'd from their testing is that the airfilter is actually just a little portion of all flow restriction in a car, if you really wanted to improve engine eficinty by modding the airflow than youd carefully have to redesign most of the factory ducting.

also factory air filters and airboxes seemed to be pretty good according to autospeed, and in any case these K&R type airfilters should alsways be placed inside the standard or a custom airbox, otherwise you'd just have a potential WAI (wich could be good, but somethinh alltogether different than a free flow filter).

they where also quite enthousiastic about a simple ram intake to the stock airbox, which is you think about it makes a lot of sence, carmakers likely put the intake in a place that somewhat shielded from water, leafes and whatnot, wich could cause problems on an exposed system

so what i gather from all that is that while these pod filters might be perfecly good products (allowing more air trough, being reusable, at the cost of filtering slightly less) there's not magic bolt on device that either delevers more power or improves FE depending on what sells
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:59 AM   #47 (permalink)
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It just seems so relevant right now

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Last edited by blueflame; 10-12-2009 at 08:11 AM..
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Old 10-12-2009, 11:43 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueflame View Post
I have 3 pods pulled off wrecks sitting in the garage, but I should sell them as I realized HAI was really useful for me, which pods dont allow as easily as my standard configuration.

Actually, in fact, the engine manufacturer designed the vehicle intake to match all the other intake and exhaust components, including the exhaust system restriction. To only whack on a pod, is not enough to balance the engine. You need the chrome plated gear knob to really make it run well.

I dont want to loose CAI on demand (during accelleration) and HAI during cruise which is standard on the Pug205, or have sucking noises. Paper filters last for 5 years plus and DONT use more fuel as they age a little, high speed power does eventually suffer, but torque and economy often improve.

Put on a pod.

Slower warm up.
Use more fuel.
Sucking noises.
Less Torque.
Heat loss via 100% cold intake.
Dubious filtration.
Feed the crazy K&N monster.
Chinese clones 1/4 the price
Tee shirt-free.

Pods normally go with a performance rechip or 02 sensor and really kill fuel economy.
THANK YOU! (I use a T-Shirt for a filter.)
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Old 10-12-2009, 11:55 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ View Post
Have you been flow testing your old filters? How can you be sure that they actually needed to be changed?
No, I don't have a flow testing setup in my garage. (Nor a dyno, alas.) Now how much would one of those cost? And how much time would I have to spend setting up a test?

As for how I know they need to be changed, I think the manufacturer's recommended interval is a good clue. Or I could just drive until they get black with dust & crud...

Quote:
Also - If you can only find your filters at the dealer, you're not looking hard enough.
Plus shipping, if you order on-line. They don't (or didn't) have them at the local parts store.
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Old 10-12-2009, 11:56 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Frank Lee View Post
And replace every 10,000 miles? Maybe if you live in Iraq.
Ever been to northern Nevada? The climate's not all that different, especially when it comes to dust.

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