UL-Listed 120V Electricity Consumption Meter?

[Flakbadger]

Hello all, I've been trying to track down an electrical consumption meter so I can see how much juice it takes to charge my electric car via LV-1 EVSE. I'd love to do some "fuel logs" after I drive/charge, but the built-in tools in the car don't seem show how much electricity has been consumed during the last charge cycle.

I looked on Amazon and all they have are cheap Chinese knockoffs with creative, nearly-English names and no certifications for safety. I'm hoping to stay under $50 USD if possible, but I understand that might not be realistic.

Does anyone have a lead on this?

I searched the forums a bit and didn't see what I was hoping to find, though I might have overlooked it. Thanks in advance, all.

~Matt

EDIT: Was this a dumb place to post this? Should I have gone with "Instrumentation" or "Fossil Fuel Free?"

[NeilBlanchard]

I recommend a Kill-A-Watt:

Kill A Watt Meter - Electricity Usage Monitor | P3

[Flakbadger]

Originally Posted by NeilBlanchard

I recommend a Kill-A-Watt:

Kill A Watt Meter - Electricity Usage Monitor | P3

Thanks Neil, I saw that one, but it appears it isn't UL listed or certified by any other organization either. I don't want a house fire, you know?

[redpoint5]

I'd go TP-Link HS110. Data nicely presented in an app, and power resolution better than the Kill-A-Watt.

UL certified for 15 amps.

You need to connect it to a 2.4 Ghz WiFi network and download an app.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-HS110...s%2C223&sr=8-2

I'm very close to purchasing this whole home monitoring kit which includes 8 individual branch circuit sensors. It's $100 though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...57HPVTEJ&psc=1

[Stubby79]

That wifi consumption meter is a great deal!

Just some feedback on the chinese kill-a-watt knockoffs...mine works great.

Safe? Dunno about that. But I figure, presuming I know how these things work, there's not much that can go wrong and cause dangerous (fire) situations.

Of course, I use in in a big concrete box, so if it goes up in flames, it won't take out my home.

I've tortured the thing. They sell an identical one - other than the plug on the back - for 220v, and I've put 220v and a good couple of thousands of watts through mine and it functioned properly and didn't go up in smoke.

Of course, I don't suggest anyone do any of the stupid things I do -- and if you do, take precautions like having it at the far end of an extension cord outside where it won't take out anything else -- but I thought a bit of feedback or a review was in order.

YMMV.

[JRMichler]

Originally Posted by Flakbadger

Thanks Neil, I saw that one, but it appears it isn't UL listed or certified by any other organization either. I don't want a house fire, you know?

My Kill A Watt Model P4460.01 is certified by ETL to meet UL Std 61010B-1 and CSA Std C22.2. And it's been working perfectly since I bought it in 2011.

[redpoint5]

The ground on my Kill-a-watt broke off because the device just barely intrudes into the other sockets space, and you're tempted to just force it to fit. It stopped working once the ground pin detached. I opened it back up and soldered it on, but it's still wobbly.

I use 1' extension cords now to connect it. My preference is still the TP-Link (Kasa) models because they are the same price, yet have extra functionality like measuring tenths of a watt rather than rounding up, data logging, scheduling, and remote control of the outlet.

Last night I connected our small on demand hot water unit to it and set a schedule so that hot water isn't being made when we're sleeping or gone. I'm also monitoring energy consumption and will throw that into an energy audit spreadsheet.

Last night I also installed that $100 whole home monitoring system I mentioned above. Seems to work great, but it isn't capable of measuring below 40 W consumption, and the precision is not as good since it's an inductive meter. I've got the main feed monitored along with 8 branch circuits.

My idle consumption is about 500 Watts. I better track thost phantoms down.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...57HPVTEJ&psc=1

[hayden55]

I'm feeling a spend spree coming on with the new datalogging equipment I see. Thats so sweet.

[redpoint5]

Originally Posted by hayden55

I'm feeling a spend spree coming on with the new datalogging equipment I see. Thats so sweet.

I have to say, installation was a breeze and the app gave me no difficulties at all, unlike most cheap consumer electronics. The app has a good rating in the Apple store. As usual, I worked on the panel live, but this time didn't have any incidents. I bought insulated screwdrivers since I'm an idiot and always think I can work on stuff live. I was standing on the top platform of a 6' fiberglass ladder last time I shocked myself. Figured the fiberglass isolated me, but 2 wires conducted through my finger.

One thing that surprised me is the ceiling fan on low setting is showing something like 17 watts consumption. That's pretty darn low for a mechanical device.

My air handler only has 1 speed setting when I turn it on, and it consumes 1kW, which was surprisingly high. I guess I won't be running that all night to even out the various room temperatures.

I a different thread I was talking about running the air handler to circulate cool downstairs air upstairs in the summer, but it might just be cheaper to run the AC on a thermostat than a constant 1kW fan draw.

[hayden55]

Originally Posted by redpoint5

I have to say, installation was a breeze and the app gave me no difficulties at all, unlike most cheap consumer electronics. The app has a good rating in the Apple store.

My air handler only has 1 speed setting when I turn it on, and it consumes 1kW, which was surprisingly high. I guess I won't be running that all night to even out the various room temperatures.

I a different thread I was talking about running the air handler to circulate cool downstairs air upstairs in the summer, but it might just be cheaper to run the AC on a thermostat than a constant 1kW fan draw.

I've thought/done the same thing.
Hopefully the breaker box one is good because TP-Link sucks. Everything I have from them. They just never stay sync'd. The setup is always a pita as well.