Vacuum gauge '86 CRX HF?

[Chuck Biscuits]

New guy here. I understand that since my car is carbureted, I can't use a real-time mileage readout (MPGuino, ScanGauge). I also understand that I can go old-school and use a vacuum gauge. Here are my questions: should I get a mechanical gauge or can I use an electric gauge since I have the HF "shift light"? Is one inherently better than the other? More accurate? More desirable? Help me out here; I'm in the dark!

Seriously, I would love to benefit from your experience, of which I have virtually none.

Thanks,

CB

[oil pan 4]

Use a mechanical $20 or $30 gauge.
If you want to spend 2 or 3 times that for a digital one then go for it.

[Chuck Biscuits]

Is my "shift light" essentially an electronic vacuum gauge? Sometimes it seems to come on when the RPMs are too low, as well as too high. I'm still waiting for the previous owner to send me the owner's manual/documentation, so I'm in the dark as to the secrets of "The Light".

CB

[bestclimb]

The light is a little like a vacuum gauge. It won't give you any information once you are up to speed. I find the shift lights in most cars to be decent, though when using a display of some sort I hardly ever see it as I am shifting before it comes on. A vac gauge may help if you drive it right.

[elhigh]

I got a mechanical vacuum gauge from O'Reilly's and plumbed it in and was really happy with it...for about a month.

Then I noticed the vacuum was creeping up and up. "Cool," thought I. "I'm getting better."

Not so. At rest with the engine off, the needle would come to rest at 5, then 10" of vacuum. With difficulty, I painstakingly took the gauge apart, reset the needle and put it back together.

It happened again. My gauge shows about 12.5 - 15" vacuum with the engine off. It isn't helping me over time, I can only use it for instantaneous improvements in pedal position.

I would vote for an electronic gauge, if only for the fact that it should recalibrate itself back to zero every time it turns off.