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Old 05-07-2016, 10:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Not another Warm air intake on a diesel thread

Diesels increase in fuel economy down to about -10C (even ancient low compression monsters). When you heat the air you just reject more combustion energy to the cooling system instead of moving you down the road. You also create more NOx

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Old 05-08-2016, 01:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
It's all about Diesel
 
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WAI in a Diesel is only somewhat useful during a cold starts, but that's why grid heaters are there...
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Nissan pickups 1986.5-1989 also have a vacuum operated warm air valve IIRC.
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Old 05-08-2016, 09:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr View Post
WAI in a Diesel is only somewhat useful during a cold starts, but that's why grid heaters are there...
Agreed grids @200A(2400W) draw , are thire to alow starting@-5f/no block heater ,and -40f using the block heater.but only works@ start-ups. And can take 1.5hr idle time to achieve130f coolent temp(did an experiment and quit @1.5hr) or 15-20mi @65mph to open the thermostat with a 85% radator block. Plus the alternator is only130A and more like 50-60 at idle.
------
It will be most usefull whin I'm coasting 7mi down a 6%grade @70-85mph in Neutral,yes @-40f.my heater starts loosing heat coolent drops to 143f EGT drops to 150f by the bottom. With85% radator block. Auto so no CEO.
------
So this will facilitate a selfatounamass controls all I have to do is sit back and enjoy the strong heater.instead of grabbing a jacket. Or forgetting to pull a cable till its too late.
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Old 05-08-2016, 09:37 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnClark View Post
Not another Warm air intake on a diesel thread
yes, not every one lives in the bandana belt
Diesels increase in fuel economy down to about -10C 15f as compared to -40f/c the common winter temps hear at the top of the contanintal divide (even ancient low compression monsters). When you heat the air you just reject more combustion energy to the cooling system instead of moving you down the road. at a rate fo 1% per 10fabove 60fYou also create more NOx above 2500f cylinder temperature
This is why I'm suggesting to alow fresh-40f air mix with preheated air. Not to hot and not to cold.
----
What do you expect to happen to my FE win I droop 30f below the thermostat closing temperature (165f)3 times per 200mi round trip?
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Old 05-08-2016, 10:30 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
The air to water coolers run on their own coolant circuit.
Air to water coolers can cool almost as well as air to air.
Who runs the air to water cooler in with the engine coolant loop? Dodge89-91.4 "Aftercooled"WJCAC(water jacket charge air cooler)put too much heat load on the under sized radiator. So they revamped the system after only 2.5 model years. They didnt adderss the anemic cooling system till the body change in 94.
For my diesel I plan on putting an air to water cooler between the turbos and that coolant is going to be on it's own coolant loop.good place for it as the air will be reheated by the 2nd turbo and if memory serves your planning on the radiator for the WJCAC to be in the bumper so no heat load on the cooling system also good.
How would you regulate the WJCAC temperature@ my -40f/c ambient temperature to keep it above freezing on a 7 mi cost down a 6%grade? With a heat exchanger? Cross flow from motor coolent to WJCAC coolent ? This could possibly slow the loss of heat. But would remove needed heat from the cab heater/motor.
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Old 05-08-2016, 11:15 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
The mechanical thermostatic valve is mechanical and regulates the air to around 90F. this would work . or is it oil pan"The way GM did it there is a pnewmatic thermostat that opens and closes a flapper on the air cleaner intake tube. So it would go back and forth between 600'F air and cold air. You cant tune for that".. this wouldn't
The electric portion only reverts it to cold air.
You don't have to use the cold air.
I thought about restoring the OE thermostatic intake but I wanted something a little different.
Main difference with mine is I was never trying to flow full air flow through the WAI.
If I need power the CAI is opening.
Also I am going to be running 11:1 compression.
I will end up using 2 snorkels too.

If it gets so cold there why not just convert to an after cooler and just turn off the after cooler when it's really cold letting the turbo heat the air? While drawing air from under the hood.1)my Air to air will drop the temp to ~-40f @60+mph at idle.2) I have my complete turbo up. Heat wrapped so after 100mi I can pop the hood and hold on to the turbo or "anything" without getting burnt (below~130f) and this is with a 4-500f EGT at the time(inside the manafulld). So no under hood heat to help. I was going to pull my warm air off the down pipe.3) thire is no heat produced by the turbo or under the hood with EGT of 50-150f and no boost at idle.
That is what I was going to do when I thought I was moving to Montana or Wyoming.
Have you read the 5.9 stationary non intercooled application manual?
They recommend running cold air down to 25F to freezing, then drawing air from inside the enclosure if operated below 25. this to keep the air form becoming too dense causing excessive back presser on the exost side of the turbo or stretching the head bolts. And the injection pump is calibrated for IAT~2-400f and steady rpm @~rated (1600rpm)
.
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Old 05-09-2016, 02:49 AM   #18 (permalink)
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The density difference between 80-90 degree F air and 10 degree F air is about 10.
Cold air is not going to stretch head bolts. Not in an Cummins engine any way. That sounds like a old wives tail.
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Old 09-27-2016, 04:42 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I am subscribing to this. I have a 2007 5.9 Dodge Ram. There are lots of threads on other forums where they talk about warm air intakes. But one that controls the warm air intake is gonna be the best. I would like to see the final results with pictures and perhaps even a parts list. I am looking at doing something similar.
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Old 02-03-2017, 08:06 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Well got to do some fact gathering yesterday
Ran my normal Helena to Anaconda Montana 100mi south leg test run got 23.18mpg . about 1.5 below average. 500lbs ballast stacked accrost the tail gate .(3200lbs front 3500lbs rear, 100lbs transfer off the front) on winter studded snow tires @65psi on all 4 corners. Aero Tonto on.

It was cold 7f above to start -2 at finish
80% grill block in place.

AIT mesured with a k type thermocouple in the intake horn(manifold , post turbo and Intercooler)

IAT was a max of 40f on long grades
Average 20 f
Costing in neutral at up to 85mph 15f

20-30 above ambant air temperature
Parked for 3hrs ,then headed home33mile drive at -10f .
32 max
19average

For reference
Coolent temperature is 155f @30 ambant with no grill block..
175 @30f ambant with 80% blocked

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1st gen cummins 91.5 dodge d250 ,HX35W/12/6 QSV
ehxsost manafulld wrap, Aero Tonto
best tank: distance 649gps mi 24.04 mpg 27.011usg
Best mpg : 31.32mpg 100mi 3.193 USG 5/2/20


Former
'83 GMC S-15 Jimmy 2door 2wd O/D auto 3.73R&P
'79 Chevy K20 4X4 350ci 400hp msd custom th400 /np205. 7.5-new 14mpg modded befor modding was a thing
87' Hyundai Excel
83 ranger w/87 2.9 L FI2wd auto 18mpg on the floor
04 Mitsubishi Gallant 2.4L auto 26mpg
06 Subaru Forrester XT(WRX PACKAGE) MT AWD Turbocharged 18 plying dirty best of 26mpg@70mph
95Chevy Blazer 4x4 auto 14-18mpg
04 Chevy Blazer 4x4 auto 16-22mpg


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