12-14-2009, 01:40 AM
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#21 (permalink)
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eco....something or other
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I have been thinking about something like that also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by moorecomp
I recently thought about doing a very similar mod. I was thinking of taking the return line from the existing heater core, and cutting it. Then run one side of the return line to the intake of the air box heater core and the outlet to the other side of the return line. Basically put the new one in series with the return line from the existing heater core. To control the temp, I would use a flapper valve in the airbox, controlled by a push/pull cable. No need for a flow valve.
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I was thinking of running it parallel to the existing heater core to avoid reduced flow. I like to have plenty of heat when I want it. It would be good to have a way to disable this mod on hot days for cars that don't do well with HOT air. I think I have a tranny cooler that would fit in the air box.....
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1991 F-250:
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12-14-2009, 01:53 AM
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#22 (permalink)
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Moderate your Moderation.
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Isaac -
That's what the flow control is for. Most older Jap vehicles have them, they're cable actuated. If you're good enough with electronics, you could wire up an ARDuino or something similar to control a stepper motor with a thermostat circuit to constantly adjust the valve to keep a specific IAT setting. That would prevent the over-hot intake in the summer.
Although, if your hottest setting only gets you optimal temps, it's not going to get any worse in the summer. Your thermostat controls the engine coolant temp regardless of season.
Also, if you started to overheat to the extent that the intake heated up too much, it would act as a self-cooling device. The hotter the intake air is, the less fuel the engine injects, so the less heat is released into the engine. It's sort of self-regulating. Thats why I like the idea so much.
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12-15-2009, 08:15 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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Driving the TurboWeasel
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So the results of driving around for a few days are back. The airbox gets ~ 30 degrees warmer than ambient on the highway. It needs a duct to a heat source or a heater inside it to get warmer.
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2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco 6MT
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08-05-2010, 11:00 AM
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#24 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Ick - '97 Buick Lesabre 90 day: 22.05 mpg (US) Radio Flyer - '88 Ford Ranger xlt 90 day: 18.7 mpg (US) Mommy Van - '05 Chrysler Town and Country Touring 90 day: 20.77 mpg (US) Scoot - '85 Honda Ch150d Elite 150 Deluxe 90 day: 67.42 mpg (US)
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Sorry to bring up an old topic, but I have a similar car so I am interested in the mod.
Do you have any updates on this mod? Looking at mods that the average person would never know is there. Boat tails are out.
Don't have a scanguage yet do to financial reasons.
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08-05-2010, 10:01 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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Driving the TurboWeasel
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It will raise the incoming air temperature about 20*F. It helps some in the winter.
This winter I'll try getting even warmer air into the engine with a snorkel arrangement to the exhaust crossover pipe. Seeing a 30-40*F increase would be great for winter highway MPG.
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2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco 6MT
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08-05-2010, 10:09 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Ick - '97 Buick Lesabre 90 day: 22.05 mpg (US) Radio Flyer - '88 Ford Ranger xlt 90 day: 18.7 mpg (US) Mommy Van - '05 Chrysler Town and Country Touring 90 day: 20.77 mpg (US) Scoot - '85 Honda Ch150d Elite 150 Deluxe 90 day: 67.42 mpg (US)
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Thanks, I am working to improve on my dismal 22mpg current average. I did notice that after taping of the opening in the bumper that my engine temp is slightly raised. Planning to buy a scanguage in the near future so that I can get real data. I don't trust the GM guages too much.
So tomorrows plan is to recheck tire pressure. Tape off some more of the grille and possibly change the spark plugs. I bought them last spring and still have yet to install them. Also need to check the air filter. Have just changed the oil and recent trans fluid and filter.
Allen
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1997 Buick Lesabre 3800 V6 automatic. 181K miles.
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08-05-2010, 10:54 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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Driving the TurboWeasel
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Check out my topic on a polycarbonate grille block for the upper grille. It's still working just fine.
Did you tape off the lower or upper grille? I'm curious because I think taping off the drivers side lower grille would be great in the winter for increased air temps, and faster warmup. The radiator outlet is in the lower left, so it would still be plenty cool with 3/4 of the grille blocked off when the temperatures are below 50*F.
The GM dash gauges are trash. The two my car has lie like criminals. My ScanGauge is much more accurate, especially for fuel economy.
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2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco 6MT
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08-06-2010, 12:17 AM
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#28 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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I taped off the lower section completely and left the upper grille alone. I didn't hear the fan come on at all.
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1997 Buick Lesabre 3800 V6 automatic. 181K miles.
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08-06-2010, 07:30 PM
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#29 (permalink)
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Driving the TurboWeasel
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Also, you want a ScanGauge since a tiny pedal effort is the difference between 25 mpg and 31 mpg...
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2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco 6MT
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08-06-2010, 08:07 PM
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#30 (permalink)
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Driving the TurboWeasel
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2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco 6MT
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