Warm(er) Air Intake for the 1999 LeSabre - 1st Attempt - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

99LeCouch · 12-09-2009, 11:17 PM

Here's my attempt at making a warm(er) air intake for my car. I had previously cut away a section closer to the front of the car. The current cutaway is behind the top radiator hose, closer to the engine. The old cut is closed off to ensure the intake air is coming from the engine bay. I also have a grille block, so I'm hoping the combination traps enough warm air.

Here are some photos:

Sketch, then cut:

Old on left, new on right:

Taped off for testing:

Installed:

Have not had a chance to test it yet. Feedback welcomed!

Christ · 12-09-2009, 11:58 PM

Are you monitoring IAT somehow?

99LeCouch · 12-10-2009, 12:15 AM

Yes, with my ScanGauge.

I'm hoping this shows warmer temperatures for highway driving. Around town is all right. Highway is 10*F above outside air temperature. When it's 15*F out and the car is gulping 25*F air, the engine is not liking the cold air much. Last winter when I visited New York, the car knocked so badly that premium became cost-effective to boost fuel efficiency. Warmer air means less knock, at least for my car.

Christ · 12-10-2009, 12:16 AM

Would you be willing to try a manually controlled intake heater? I can explain the mod, though I'm not sure if it will fit in your airbox..

99LeCouch · 12-10-2009, 12:18 AM

Please do explain.

Christ · 12-10-2009, 12:33 AM

First, I should qualify this by saying that I haven't done it to any of my vehicles yet, so the result isn't predictable 100%.

You'll need a small heater core (that fits in your airbox, or that you can mod into it), enough hose to reach from your OE heater core lines to the airbox, two Tee fittings, and a heater control valve.

You'll install the heater core in the airbox, tee off the lines to your OE heater core, and install the flow valve on the input side. Run an old choke cable into the cabin from the flow valve, reinstall your airbox as normal, and burp the coolant system.

As the engine warms up, you'll have warm coolant flowing through the heater core. You effectively have a temperature controlled heater in your intake, which will give you the option to adjust for super-hot, super-cold, etc.

IN addition, you can adjust on the fly, while watching for instant economy and faults on your SGII.

99LeCouch · 12-10-2009, 12:45 AM

That's a neat idea! You'd let the incoming air get as hot as you wanted via scavenging the heat the engine is otherwise bleeding into the air. I think that would definitely increase efficiency if implemented.

The heater hoses are kitty-corner to the airbox in my engine bay, so it would be an octopus of coolant hose running around the engine bay. Plus finding a heat valve that was not vacuum-actuated. Not to mention getting a small-enough heater core. It'd be a challenge on this car.

Christ · 12-10-2009, 12:58 AM

Well, most Japanese base models have cable actuated heat valves. The cores are pretty small, too, but if you can braze, you can cut one down on your own to fit. The snake hoses are going to be a problem, most likely.

I still intend to try this some day on something. Eventually.

99LeCouch · 12-10-2009, 08:48 AM

Bolting together is as complex as I can do.

I tried running errands this morning, and in some cruising at 40 mph the air temperatures got up to 90*F. It's about 46*F right now, so at 40 mph cruise it's good for a 45*F increase in air temperature.

More testing will be done this weekend when I do a roadtrip to central New York.

MadisonMPG · 12-10-2009, 12:25 PM

Does the 3800 really knock when it is cold?