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Old 06-30-2008, 05:52 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanner View Post
To say nothing of the extra style points, and the chance to end up on someone's ricer site.
Well, you could turn them inside out so you don't drive around with advertisements.

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Old 06-30-2008, 06:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I used homebuilt aircraft aluminum construction technology in constructing my mods. The boattail weighs about 50 lbs. (but I removed at least that much weight in removing the stock steel and glass hatch),the nosepiece weighs about 20 lbs., the wheel well covers about 4lbs (front) and 2lbs. (rear) each, and then a few pounds for the coroplast underbody.
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Old 07-02-2008, 04:48 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wanna bECO View Post
okay, here is a pic of the Rims.... I know, I know... they're pretty dope ... but then again, so is the whole ride. So, will i gain any mileage changing to steel rims with moon caps, I don't really care about how she looks.... she is just transpo after all.
wanna BECO,I did an installment on wheels and tires that will give you some numbers to compare.I've not touched on weight as I'm still doing aero.The weight difference between the "clean" Moonies and heavier steel wheels,shouldn't impact mpg with respect to the "dirty" alloy wheels.Consider brake cooling if your a urban street screamer.If you are easy on the binders,Moonies are a great way to go.
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Old 07-02-2008, 05:35 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Don't swap wheels, add a set of "screw on bonneville salt flat discs" in your existing wheel size. (don't buy the snap-on ones they also sell, they won't work on your aluminum wheels)

Drill and tap the aluminum wheel lip using the factory holes in your new caps as a guide. Fasten them using #8-32 or #10-32 phillips pan head or button head allen machine screws will do it. The covers come with three evenly spaced holes already drilled in them.

There is another thread somewhere on this exact thing.
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Old 08-01-2008, 10:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bror Jace View Post
wanna bECO, wanna post a (modest) picture of your rims? Might help if someone wants to comment on your particular set-up.

Vanner is right. At a steady speed, momentum (weight) works for you almost as much as the higher rolling resistance works against you.

My goal is to find very smooth wheel covers for my two front wheels and rear wheel well skirts to cover the back.
I don't think this is true. Could you explain either what you mean or why you believe it to be true (or both)?
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Old 08-13-2008, 03:32 PM   #16 (permalink)
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220-pounds

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Originally Posted by Vanner View Post
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...nnel-1924.html is an excellent thread on this. Bearleener found a handy rule where reducing your coefficient of drag by .01 is equivalent to shedding 220 pounds. However, I believe that figure is only accurate at a constant 60 mph. Since weight has a greater relative impact at lower speeds, and especially under acceleration, the practical equivalent should be considerably less than 220 pounds.

Here Measure the drag coefficient of your car - Instructables - DIY, How To, ride is an excellent instructable that should be able to tell you how much of an improvement those wheels make. Of course, the simplest solution is always to hook up the ol' scangauge or neighborhood friendly gas station and take em out for some test runs...
It would be valuable for them to cite the test vehicle weight used in the "rule of thumb",as a 220-lb reduction in a Cadillac DeVille would probably show a different reaction,say to a VW 1-liter car.Perhaps a percent mass change per mpg percent change would be more helpful.

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