What to do about Old Blue

[drbobwoolery]

My 91 California (with EGR) hatchback runs well, gave 47 MPG at 70-75 on the last long run. Actuating the EGR at idlemakes the car stumble, but not immediately die. Compression read 140, 130, 140 dry; 150, 155, 150 wet. Either the fuel injector or its O-ring leaks, so that starting the car warm, it hits on one, then two, and finally three. It also uses a quart of oil every 1000 mi or so.

I can see that it would like rings and valves, and EGR cleaning is next in line, then the fuel injector issue gets investigated.

Now that I have the 49state 4door, I could disable this one without having to walk for groceries, but am reluctant to tear into it, as everything is old enough to vote. I have a can of Seafoam, so I'll do that after it's back together from the EGR reaming.
How do others decide about one that is clearly due, but still "works fine"?

[dwtaylorpdx]

If you tear an engine down before anything really
goes bad the odds of keeping it cheap to rebuild go way up.

See if NAPA or someone can price a overhaul kit for you.
The kits are usually decent production parts nothing fancy.
If you've never done a engine rebuild a little 3 cyl is
perfect to learn on.

Dave

[Johnny Mullet]

With those compression numbers, I suspect you are due for a rebuild. I highly recommend replacing the exhaust valves with stainless steel ones so they will not burn in the future.

The Metro will run with compression numbers as low as 90 or even less, but will not run well. Here are some threads that may help you do the entire rebuild yourself saving you lots of money..............

1.0L Head Repair Guide

Bottom End Rebuild Guide

Mrs. Mullet's Extreme Metro Makeover

The Weekend Rebuild

Good luck!

[some_other_dave]

If you know you've got air or fuel leaks, I would suggest fixing them first...

-soD

[bgd73]

west coast egr runners. Thanks from the rest of the world. your in one of two states that actually use it to 100k miles without nuclear byproducts.

hows that rain once every six months holding up? was it the last storm that got you thinking about crud?!

[drbobwoolery]

Johnny, I have wondered about those stainless valves. Not the price, which is fine, but knowing that SS is famous for warping. I guess 3tech has that fixed. Has anybody tried grinding down the heads of sodium filled VW valves for these?

If I had not gotten the 49 stater, I would have thought that Old Blue was running perfectly. Now I know that the leaking injector O-ring (please!) or injector, plus the quart every thousand oil loss is filling the EGR with carbon; exhaust valves on their way out. I was kidding myself that I might Seafoam it to health. I will do it before I tear it down, hoping that the insides will be cleaner.

I also wonder about the oil pump. Do these get a "while you are here" renewal like the water pump? I believe the engine may be north of 200,000, and the pan gasket is messy, so I will mike everything before ordering pistons (probably), pumps, valves, and gaskets. I figure to pick the engine/trans out together, as stabbing the jackshaft has been a 3 day cursefest the two times I have done it in the car. For now, I'll clean out the EGR, headlight relays, and grounds.
I figure on 3tech headbolts and valves, with most or all of the rest from Parts dinosaur.
I'm doing headlight relay and electric system grounds upgrades on this one, then on the frontline car, so something always runs. I hate walking for parts!

[Johnny Mullet]

Sounds good! The head bolts and stainless valves are cheaper from 3Tech than the standard parts and a much better deal. If you would like to get better fuel economy, consider the Economy grind camshaft from 3Tech. It is a proven instant 5 MPG increase! Combine that with an advanced timing gear and you really got something going!

Oil pumps normally don't go bad even with high miles. Yours may haave some internal wear, so replacing the pump is not a bad idea.

[drbobwoolery]

Wow, parts have gone up. I figure that the parts list for a belt and suspenders rebuild is $500 before the 3tech economy cam and redrilled pulley. Leaving out the oil pump, tensioner, and lifters gets it to 325, or 275 with old (cringe) pistons.

Still, beats paying 700 for JDM, or 1000 for an alleged rebuilt that probably has its old pistons and oil pump!