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Old 10-13-2015, 12:44 AM   #11 (permalink)
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One of the easiest examples to understand vehicle acceleration is with one of the least popular(at least in the beginning) automatic transmissions, a Continuously Variable Ratio Tranny(CVT). My own CVT was a Nissan CVT, that was adapted to be used in a 2007 Dodge Caliber. The CVT was said to be most efficient when driving at 2000 rpms. At 60mph, rpms were 2000. When accelerating, set the throttle so your rpms are 2000, & you could accelerate slowly to 60mph. When both conditions could be met, cruising at 2000rpm & slow acceleration at 2000rpm, Caliber would give pretty good mpg, despite the car itself, not aerodynamic or the engine, particularly thrifty. Any divergence from 2000rpms & you should expect less thrifty mpg.

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Old 10-13-2015, 02:26 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Then there is my car, you can hoon it up as long as you don't need to waste energy to slow down afterwards without severely impacting fuel economy.
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Getting sensor data off of a pre OBDII Toyota ECU via TDCL.
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Old 10-13-2015, 07:29 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Here's a BSFC chart for a Toyota Corolla:
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The circles with numbers show the amount of fuel needed to produce a certain amount of power. Note how you get less from your fuel as RPM increases and load decreases. On this particular engine, you want to stay between maybe 1750 and 3000RPM.
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Old 10-13-2015, 10:39 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky View Post
Look up "BSFC charts".....
That said, so long as you aren't revving it up, the biggest gains are too be found in the art of slowing down.
Didn't see any for a 1998 Honda Civic, even without searching for the year.

OK I can keep it simple: accelerate but not too fast (I think I've trained myself to do that already), & learn how to coast, and approach intersections.
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Old 10-13-2015, 11:31 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Yep. Brakes waste gas. Avoid needing them.
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Transmission type Efficiency
Manual neutral engine off.100% @MPG <----- Fun Fact.
Manual 1:1 gear ratio .......98%
CVT belt ............................88%
Automatic .........................86%

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Old 10-14-2015, 09:53 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prr View Post
Didn't see any for a 1998 Honda Civic, even without searching for the year.

OK I can keep it simple: accelerate but not too fast (I think I've trained myself to do that already), & learn how to coast, and approach intersections.
I haven't seen one either, but if you look at a bunch of different engines' charts, you start seeing strong similarities. Take that general knowledge and apply it and you WILL get results.

The differences between your engine and the general "other" engine is only a few percent this way or that, and only matters for a portion of your driving time. You've got the right idea - keep it simple and keep working to do better.
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Old 10-14-2015, 10:18 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Wait a sec. Just remembered that my 98 civic doesn't have an indicator for RPMs. Some do, just not mine. Oh well at least I can continue accelerating slowly, to avoid breaking as much.
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Old 10-14-2015, 11:50 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Wait a sec. Just remembered that my 98 civic doesn't have an indicator for RPMs. Some do, just not mine. Oh well at least I can continue accelerating slowly, to avoid breaking as much.
Get a Scangauge. It is the best tool for monitoring your engine and ECU. It will give instant feedback on mileage and it can display all sorts of engine fucntions including RPM.
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I'm not coasting, I'm shifting slowly.
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:15 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Get a Scangauge. It is the best tool for monitoring your engine and ECU. It will give instant feedback on mileage and it can display all sorts of engine fucntions including RPM.
This. So many times. I got my old Civic up to 42 mpg without a gauge. The first tank with a gauge was 46 mpg, and that was my new low - every one after that was even higher.

But you can roughly work out the rpm by calculating speed in each gear. For my 1996 Civic DX, it worked out like this:
1500 rpm - 2300 rpm (my road-tested ideal rpm range for the Civic)
2nd gear: 13 mph - 20 mph
3rd: 20 mph - 30 mph
4th: 26 mph - 40 mph
5th: 33 mph - 50 mph

Or to keep it simple, when you reach (gear x 10) mph, shift. When you're in 3rd gear, shift when you get to 30 mph and don't take 3rd gear beyond that speed.

It gets troublesome with 5th gear. What are you going to do? You don't have a 6th gear to shift into, and you can't limit yourself to 50 mph always. You just grit your teeth and deal with the high rpm cruising and grumble at the engineers who built it this way.

Remember that neutral is an option as well. It takes a good amount of energy just to keep the engine spinning at 2000 rpm at a steady speed. If you shift to neutral it takes a lot less fuel to spin it at idle rpm instead.
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Old 10-16-2015, 01:49 AM   #20 (permalink)
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In physics, faster acceleration=higher energy requirement .

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