Yep, I tap the brakes to switch on the break lights so the followers know I'm slowing down.
The manual switch to switch on the break lights is a great idea but I'm sure that someone as newby as I'm in electricity is forbidden to attempt such a thing
About the heat plugs, they are behind a 70A (yes, seventy) fuse. I do not want to play with such high amps... I found a "small" (fewer than 10A) fuse that when removed prevents the heat plugs to switch on. Sadly when removed, even when the engine is hot, the latter seams to run "on three legs" so it must deactivate something else...
I though about unplugging the thermostat but then the ECU will do as if the temperature is very low and so will switch on the heat plugs during 30s instead of 8.
My kill switch switches the stop solenoid. I switch it on one second after I switch it off. One reason is that the anti-thief system activates as soon as the stop solenoid is off for 30s. To deactivate the anti-thief system, I have to remove the key, close and open the doors. As I switch off the kill switch only 1s at the end of the pulse, I can't use it to prevent heat plugs activation.
The more "simple" would be to put a switch on the command pin of the relay commanding the heat plugs, but my competence does forbid me to do so
Anyway, I just reached a kilotank. I found that limiting the speed of cabin fan and using it only a few minutes does permit to keep enough capacity in the battery for a whole commute (35 minutes) even with lights on. To have enough heat in the cabin I set the thermostat at the hotter position and open the vents at the maximum. I use the cabin fan only during the first 5 minutes toward the windshield to prevent the latter to fog.
With lights on I'm avoiding the kill switch if I think the glide will be less than 10s and so glide in neutral engine on.
Have fun,
Denis.
Today
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