A work in progress.

[euromodder]

I've happened on a method to spot the Diesel Particulate Filter regeneration
The intake air temperature on the ScanGauge goes way up when the regeneration is happening (these days it's < 5° to almost 50° C / 32 to 122 F).

And I've found a few more stretches of road where I can coast.
They're in 20 and 30 mph zones, where I usually get my worst mileage.

[Piwoslaw]

I wonder how the intake air temperature is raised? Maybe you have an air doser?

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by Piwoslaw

I wonder how the intake air temperature is raised? Maybe you have an air doser?

I'll have to look to see if I've got one of those.

It doesn't look like it's being used when the engine is cold though - the intake temps are usually only slightly (a few °C) above ambient air temperature.

[Piwoslaw]

The only other ways to raise intake temperatures by that much are either with a heating element in the intake, or a bunch of EGR. But the AIT sensor is usually located in the ductwork, not in the manifold where EGR gets dumped.

[lowglider]

Hi

I`ve just read this thread and if you do not mind I`d like to elaborate a little on the consumption.
On a big 1400kg car with a Cd of around 0.31, the 240Nm and 110HP engine will struggle even in a normal setup, thus adding DPF will only make it worse. Improving aero would of course help, but not so much in congested traffic.
If you are up to it, I would advise a good remap. It lowers the consumption and makes the car more comfortable to drive because acceleration is more effortless.

For instance, check out this video from 2:30 onwards and see the difference a remap can make even at a steady speed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PKyth8_REg

Keep in mind that the 725tds weighs a lot and needs more power, but you can get the idea.

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by lowglider

I`ve just read this thread and if you do not mind I`d like to elaborate a little on the consumption.

Go ahead, that's what a forum is for

On a big 1400kg car with a Cd of around 0.31, the 240Nm and 110HP engine will struggle

The later DRIVe models are smoother and appear to be more powerful despite having the same HP and torque values.

If you are up to it, I would advise a good remap.

I've been thinking about having the ECU remapped with a Rica e-Power remap.
The Volvo warranty is long gone anyway

Besides, it's one of the main things Volvo have changed in their later DRIVe models. They had to, because with the standard mapping, it'd struggle with the even longer gearing in the highest gears - another DRIVe-modification.

As it is, my car won't do 90kph or lower in 5th efficiently (I can go 100kph using less fuel than @ 90) .
It simply lacks the power at low rpm to drive the gearing, and compensates by burning more fuel.

It lowers the consumption and makes the car more comfortable to drive because acceleration is more effortless.

Yes, though I don't want a real performance upgrade with 320Nm and some 140HP .
The MTX75 gearbox in the car reportedly has some reliability issues so I don't want to pump too much extra power through it.
I haven't had gearbox problems so far, and I'd very much like to keep it that way

For instance, check out this video from 2:30 onwards and see the difference a remap can make even at a steady speed.

What sort of remap is that, using a switch ?

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by euromodder

That means winter tyres are a worthwhile investment with all this frozen global warming fud on the ground, so I put a set of Michelin Alpin A4 GreenX tyres on the Cordelia 16" rims I took off in September.

We'll see what mpg they return on the considerably lighter Cordelia rims.

The first tank is in, and it's not too shabby

Still got 46.5 mpg (US) on the new winter tyres - or 55.8 of HM's mpg (UK).
That's only 0.5mpg below the rated fuel consumption despite the cold & bad weather.

Less than half a year ago, I'd have been very happy with 46.5 mpg in summer on summer tyres

[Piwoslaw]

That's an interesting video, Lowglider. I haven't seen remappings that can be switched on and off while driving.

Originally Posted by euromodder

What sort of remap is that, using a switch ?

Maybe it switches between two ECUs - one OEM and one remapped? Or maybe it's a switch for the bottle of nitrous oxide?

[lowglider]

There are many ways that you can have a switch for a different remap, you can either have a "powerbox" which uses different resistances and thus fools the fuelpump in different ways, or you can have an aftermarket ECU that has many programs and you can just switch on the fly.
There is no use for a switch with a good remap used for normal driving. A decent remap should lower the fuel consumption by at least half a litre per 100km, even more in city driving. The added power also makes for better safety because you can overtake faster.

[Piwoslaw]

Originally Posted by euromodder

I'll have to look to see if I've got one of those.

While you're in there, would you be able to take a few photos of your engine, preferably without all the plastic covers? I'd like to see exactly how many differences there are between our engines' accessories and add-ons.