Partial rear wheel skirts/deflectors?

[BamZipPow]

Crunching the numbers from this year's trip to Tampa, my best mpg was 26.4mpg coming back home. I'm sure it would've been closer to 27mpg if I didn't have to make the multiple pit stops fer my passengers...

So compared to last year's drive (without rear wheel skirts), the mileage seems to be more consistent and a little better this year. This year's mileage was easily over 25.5mpg while last year's was about 23.5mpg.

2012-13 Tampa trip 2108 miles/82.4 gallons = 25.58mpg
2011-12 Tampa trip 2183 miles/93.3 gallons = 23.40mpg

10.9 gallons less fer the same trip.

By comparison...if I was just gitting 19mpg, I would use about 110.95 gallons fer the 2012-13 trip and 114.89 gallons fer the 2011-12 trip.

Fer the 2012-13 Tampa trip...the difference is 28.55 gallons x $3.20 (estimated average cost per gallon of gas) = $91.36 saved over stock EPA est highway. Not bad fer just one trip, eh?

[ECONORAM]

Originally Posted by BamZipPow

The concern I have with flat metal strips (if they aren't thick enough) is that they could oscillate/vibrate and contact the tires as the air flows over the support. The shelving brackets seems to be working perfectly as the "U" channel simulates the thickness of a thicker strip without the mass/bulk/cost of one. The 35" strips I bought yesterday was about $3 each. I'll probably pick up a pair of 48" strips (be it the shelf bracket rails or the punched hole strips) fer the lower panel support so I can git rid of the wire support.

Sorry, I should have clarified my post. True, the flat straps flop around. Found that out with one of the engine bay belly panel brackets--so i bolted a 90* bracket to it. (Replacing the whole strap would mean another front end alignment)
I've almost exclusively used the 90* metal pieces for brackets, and that stuff holds its form quite well. They cost more, and are heavier but I like the fact they stay put. I now wonder if I could have used the flat ones for the rear wheel fairing brackets as I had to twist them to fit, but the 90* pieces work fine. The only spot I see myself using the flat ones now for is under the fuel tank, with some cushion between. I had considered trying to bend about a 1/4" lip the length of the flat straps, but that I found extremely difficult to do with a vice and pair of channel locks or vice grips and only mildly easier with the vice and a hammer.
Nice mpg numbers!

[BamZipPow]

Since it was warm out...made some time to work on the rear wheel skirt supports. No more wire!

Shelf support bent and stitched on with zip ties...


Screwed to the supports...


Frontal area view...


I still have to paint the support black and trim the zip ties...but this should make it easier to take off and access the tire when I need to.

[Sven7]

I probably missed it, but how do you remove the bottom part to change the tire? I've been considering hinging it at the mid-point where you have the exterior bracket, but still have to decide how to secure it. AFAIK my car has no factory holes on the front of the well.

[BamZipPow]

Originally Posted by Sven7

I probably missed it, but how do you remove the bottom part to change the tire? I've been considering hinging it at the mid-point where you have the exterior bracket, but still have to decide how to secure it. AFAIK my car has no factory holes on the front of the well.

All I have to currently do is cut any zip ties at top and unscrewing 4-5 screws. I'm trying to find a non-cut method with a hinge in the next iteration. I might end with another bracket at the top of the rear wheel skirt panel.

Snap some piccies of yer wheel well and maybe we can think of something...

[Sven7]

Thanks, I was trying to figure out a good bracket and wing nut situation, since screwdrivers suck when it's below zero.

Czech my build thread in awhile. It was 15* below zero this morning but it's supposed to be less brutally cold next week. (Hard to take pictures when you're wearing two pairs of gloves )

[BamZipPow]

I keep a Makita drill driver with a screw bit in the truck at all times...along with a Makita impact driver. Makes short work of the fasteners fer the skirts (side/wheel) and belly pan if I need to fix a flat.

[ECONORAM]

BZP, I too have now joined the rear wheel skirt club. Fabbed a set last week before visiting the grandkids. I'll post a picture, if I remember to take one tomorrow. Been way too windy to even attempt any ABA testing though.

[BamZipPow]

Originally Posted by ECONORAM

BZP, I too have now joined the rear wheel skirt club. Fabbed a set last week before visiting the grandkids. I'll post a picture, if I remember to take one tomorrow. Been way too windy to even attempt any ABA testing though.

What was yer material of choice? Did you go with a full or partial wheel skirt? What are you using to brace yer material with? I love using the wall shelf brackets...easy to work with and sturdy and inexpensive.

I'm gitting ready to reinforce the top of my rear wheel skirts with another set of brackets. My rear wheel skirts should be able to keep their shape much easier.

[RiderofBikes]

Maybe this might simplify some things or for reference... I took 1/2" 90* alum, bent it inwards giving my clearence around wheel, and hammered out the ends flat drilled a hole than tapped into the bodywork pinching a pad in place to prevent scratching/wear. Then used a one of those thin brace pieces and at the time taped it against the body and ziptied to the horizantal brace.
I realize now, i could have bent that piece in and pinched the lip of the wheel well arch. and waste less tape. Then i layd a thin plastic poster over the skelton struture, and taped to the car.. Now i also realize, if I had form holding material + the pinched brace idea, i could of had a removable panel that would only take removing 2 screws and wala!

(imagine the battery cover of a remote. Slide into grooves on one end, then snap shut, or secure with a screw at the other)