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Old 12-28-2016, 10:35 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I've never faced the predicament, but if I did I'd at least consider cutting a wedge out of another truck's cab that would fit behind the partially opened door, and be welded and Bondo'd for a decent weather seal.

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Old 12-29-2016, 08:57 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I think you're on the right path. A good rounded nose up on the bunk, and some rounded edges by the cab doors. Looks like there is room for a more than swim noodles, which would be a little small. Need to find some 8" pipe to slice in half for cheap....
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:35 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I used galvanized steel duct pieces from Home Depot. They are ment to form a round duct of various diameters but I just put them into a 1/2 circle, you could do smaller ones as a 1/4 round. They are pretty strong and in my case worked well because I could reach up inside them and latch/unlatch the front window shade.


here's what I was trying to help, those sides stick out even further then they appear in the picture but especially behind where the top sides of the tow truck taper.

Last edited by Hersbird; 12-29-2016 at 09:45 PM..
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Old 12-30-2016, 03:21 AM   #24 (permalink)
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That's exactly what my mind's eye looked like, only bigger.

I'm thinking 8" pip sounds good... I wonder where to acquire PVC that size?
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Old 01-01-2017, 10:13 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Awesome job, Ben. I have had thoughts of doing exactly what you have with an old toyota RV. I looked at one a few weeks ago that had 42K on it with similar roof damage. Not having a shop kept me from buying it. My idea was to make it into a B class with tapering to the rear as has been suggested. Losing the cabover bunk would mean sleeping accommodations for 2, but that suits me. Another thing you ought to look into is a 5 speed conversion. This is typically good for an mpg or 3. I am going to link this to a toyhouse site or two. There are many there that would be very interested. Where in Maine are you? I am in Ct and make it up there regularly.
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Old 01-01-2017, 10:20 PM   #26 (permalink)
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It's a bit late now, but, did you consider using wooden boat construction techniques. Check this out. This dude built an amazing boat on a big international cab and chassis. Yeah, he had a bit more money in his budget, but this technique could be scaled down for a toyhouse build.

Ever Wondered What a $171,000 DIY Motorhome Looks Like? I am Speechless.
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Old 01-01-2017, 10:49 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Back in Permalink #14 I proposed a method of construction. With the way the conversation has gone, I should've gone with this:



It was done around the time Hersbird did his hi-lo, and applies the same solution to the cab-over area.

Edit:
Quote:
There is nothing like it that I can find. The ones close were well out of our price range. 400 gal water, 270 gal diesel, 21K solar, I don’t think there is another like it.
I wonder if slowmover will see this.

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Old 01-01-2017, 10:51 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Fattening up the cab doors with wedge shaped foam blocks, thin edge forward would provide taper from door to camper box. Something I'm considering on my Toyota camper.
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Old 01-02-2017, 08:56 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Which Toyhouse do you own? I have had A Sunrader and an Odyssey. And I just bought another Sunrader. I believe the Sunrader is likely the most aero one out there other than the teeny tiny Mirage. Those things are cool. There is one out there that may be more aero, the Nova Star. There is one out in AZ for sale that I was damn tempted to fly across the country to buy. It is a 22RE that recently had a 5 speed conversion. I talked to the guy and he claims it was good for 24 mpg if driven 45-50. I think he is likely full of $hit, but then this is the only 22RE 5 speed I have ever heard of.
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Old 01-02-2017, 02:27 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard View Post
Back in Permalink #14 I proposed a method of construction. With the way the conversation has gone, I should've gone with this:



It was done around the time Hersbird did his hi-lo, and applies the same solution to the cab-over area.

Edit:


I wonder if slowmover will see this.
And I got my idea from you and this picture you posted back on another thread. I have been getting about 14 mpg towing the Hi-Lo and at first wished for more but lately not towing the best I seem to get is a touch under 17 (I'm running larger aggressive tires now) so 14 is pretty good. I really want to put a hitch on the minivan and see if it breaks 20 (it is capable of 29 not towing). I just don't know if the stress on our primary vehicle is worth a few bucks in gas leat alone the $600 we would spend on overload springs, hitch, and brake controller. We bought a fancy new trailer of conventional style (a giant box) and the best towing it is 9.5 mpg with the Aspen. The Aspen was also listed for sale, I wanted to get the 03-04 Cummins but think that may never be worth the $10,000 upgrade that costs over the value of my Aspen which is really nice ride for my family of up to 6. The Rams those years are a tight squeeze for 6.

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