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Old 04-24-2016, 07:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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First finished mod!!!! Full exterior lower grill block. :)

So for the grill block i read that a lot of people like to do the block behind the grill to maintain a stock look but i didn't think that there would be much of a difference with that grill placement so i decided to get the drill out and start drilling holes and zip tying my way to more earth friendly efficiency

I was also lucky enough to find black Coroplast which made me happy because the white would just look bad but this kinda looks OEM if you are 20-30+ feet away.

I have not done any testing but during the 15 miles I've driven i haven't noticed a difference at all in temps or mpg, but that was all in city. I feel like i may see around a 1 mpg difference from what i have read, being optimistic maybe 2-3. Just by looks this seems like it is a lot more aerodynamic than the OEM number scooping up all that air.

The other mods i have planned are a full underbelly pan, haven't decided between Coroplast or aluminum yet. And i have been installing the Rostra cruise control system for about a month now having all kinds of issues that are getting sought out thanks to Kartronix on eBay.

Here is a link to his eBay store and i would really recommend that you go through him if you are buying a cruise control unit.
kartronix on eBay





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Old 04-24-2016, 07:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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nice job!!!

there are MANY underbelly threads on here. 99% are coroplast for a reason.

see the 3 link in my signature for the one on my 02 Infiniti Q45S

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...q45-11402.html
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ECO MODS PERFORMED:
First: ScangaugeII
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...eii-23306.html

Second: Grille Block
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...e-10912-2.html

Third: Full underbelly pan
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...q45-11402.html

Fourth: rear skirts and 30.4mpg on trip!
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post247938
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Old 04-24-2016, 10:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcrews View Post
nice job!!!

there are MANY underbelly threads on here. 99% are coroplast for a reason.

see the 3 link in my signature for the one on my 02 Infiniti Q45S

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...q45-11402.html
Sorry if it goes over why coroplast is better than aluminum but what is that reason? Im going to read your post now.

I can only see a couple reasons one being that coroplast is lighter but a downside is coroplast can't touch the exhaust where aluminum can. Also strength of the pan will be better if you scrape going over a bump or curb if you have a metal pan. I would imagine coroplast would just rip or fall off.
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Old 04-24-2016, 10:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Aluminum is the best (in my opinion). Very sturdy, light, and thin.

Coroplast is cheaper, easier to work with, easier to build with (making one piece from multiple pieces), and had very few negatives. I had it right up against my exhaust, it just melted where it needed to- but I prefer my aluminum
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Old 04-24-2016, 10:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltArc View Post
Aluminum is the best (in my opinion). Very sturdy, light, and thin.

Coroplast is cheaper, easier to work with, easier to build with (making one piece from multiple pieces), and had very few negatives. I had it right up against my exhaust, it just melted where it needed to- but I prefer my aluminum
everything he said...and cheaper.
Also, you will have to have more anchor points w/ alum. it has a tendency to vibrate and be annoying.

but take the time to review the various threads. Both coro and alum. There really are some good ones.
THe key (in my opinion) is to get the car up (possibly rent a lift at a shop for an hour) and get a really good idea of mounting points and bracing. The when you buy your materials- over buy so you have enough to do the job. save your receipt and return the extra.
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MetroMPG: "Get the MPG gauge - it turns driving into a fuel & money saving game."

ECO MODS PERFORMED:
First: ScangaugeII
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...eii-23306.html

Second: Grille Block
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...e-10912-2.html

Third: Full underbelly pan
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...q45-11402.html

Fourth: rear skirts and 30.4mpg on trip!
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post247938
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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My suggestion, but only if you don't want cheap, is PolyMetal or equivalent.



It has two skins of aluminum about as heavy as a beer can (.007in) separated by a plastic sheet. It's described as rigid as 5/8" plywood but 1/10th the weight. I bought the samples in the picture new, but since then I've found larger cut-offs at the recyclers.

You can shear and roll it, but as you see it doesn't brake very well. It's stiff enough that you wouldn't need many attachment points. There are other rigid panels as well, like the material they use for commercial rest room walls.

If you work with coroplast try laminating two sheets with the flutes crossing each other, it might not sag as much.
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Old 04-25-2016, 04:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Nice grill block!
Mine is fabricated from the spoiler off an early 90's Subaru Legacy wagon, and you can't tell it's not OEM. Insights look weird without a grill block to me now.

I mixed aluminum and coroplast on my first Insight's belly pan. Aluminum went over the engine bay and the area of the catalytic converter, and coroplast everywhere else. It's much stronger and easier to work with, and cheaper. Cheaper is important considering there's a real good chance at some point you'll run over something in the road that tears part of your hard work off the bottom of the car!
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Old 04-25-2016, 08:02 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I think CP is honestly more challenging to secure. Because the material isn't as strong, it needs more securing. My aluminum is cut, braked, and fitted for the spot. I then drilled small holes and riveted in. Perfect!

CP was a lot more challenging, as it didn't bend as well (for perfect fittings) and securing it always made the sheets tear some. One thing that has helped ME, is that I was working with a car restorer. He has the tools (and lift) and experience to teach me how to do it in a more professional way. Since I've learned about the ease of aluminum (with the right tools, a lift, brake, drills, rivets) I won't go back to my old style (laying on the ground, giant CP sheets, cable ties lol).

(Not trying to debate or argue, just make it clear my perspective, and why. CP is how I started and a great introduction, but to do it best, aluminum. Round 1 (there WILL be multiple rounds...) Is great for CP as you get familiar with the underbody of the car, and how it will actually function.)
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Old 04-25-2016, 08:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I think CP is honestly more challenging to secure. Because the material isn't as strong, it needs more securing. My aluminum is cut, braked, and fitted for the spot. I then drilled small holes and riveted in. Perfect!

CP was a lot more challenging, as it didn't bend as well (for perfect fittings) and securing it always made the sheets tear some. One thing that has helped ME, is that I was working with a car restorer. He has the tools (and lift) and experience to teach me how to do it in a more professional way. Since I've learned about the ease of aluminum (with the right tools, a lift, brake, drills, rivets) I won't go back to my old style (laying on the ground, giant CP sheets, cable ties lol).

(Not trying to debate or argue, just make it clear my perspective, and why. CP is how I started and a great introduction, but to do it best, aluminum. Round 1 (there WILL be multiple rounds...) Is great for CP as you get familiar with the underbody of the car, and how it will actually function.)
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Old 04-25-2016, 08:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Very nice grill block.

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